Oh I see what you mean now Starfury. Those bolts were not installed by me, the brackets come with those already installed. Now I understand why I didn't know what you meant earlier. I don't know if the fact that they are metric is enough reason for me to tear everything apart again. Shaun at streetortrack is pretty knowledgeable so if there was a problem with the setup I'm sure he'd know.

 

Ah, gotcha. I thought those were the bolts you said you put lock washers on. My point was that lock washers are not always a good substitute for locking nuts.

Shaun is a great guy, and the bolt strength isn't an issue (10.9 is actually a very high strength metric bolt), so I wouldn't worry about the brackets falling apart. It would just bother me if I had four metric bolts on a car where everything else was standard.

 

I know how you feel,, I had to buy a little metric set just for that damn AOD. The pan bolts are metric.. Why would they do that..

 

So what is the part number of the rotors they used? Can you get it at the auto parts store when they need replacing? Im kinda confused as to why they went with the non-standard Cobra P/N rotor, they state that its so you dont need spacers, but why would I need spacers with aftermarket rims anyway? Is it to clear the caliper? If so how do they retain the factory track width? Is it designed to clear the TS-II wheels specifically?

I was thinking of going with there bracket kit and using common rotors and calipers but now I am confused?

 

Justin all the car manufactures are switching to the metric system. They started gradually in the mid 90's. I'm guessing the manufactures are doing the same. Granted if we buy original or repop parts they will still be standard. I actually have a lot of standard tools for my truck and mustang but now I'm buying some metric tools because I find some things only come in metric. Having said that some of the standard sockets are close to the metric but I do not want to damage the bolts on the new parts I'm putting on.

 

@Coupe: the rotors that come with the kit retain the OE track width. The way this is done is the hat of the rotors (the piece the wheel mounts to) is extended outwards (away from the part of the rotor that the caliper pinches). Stock 94-04 cobra rotors would work, but then the track width would be considerabley smaller (requiring the use of custom wheels) The reason I went with plain rotors is because I can have them turned saving me the money of replacing them.Ideally, rotors don't need to be replaced that often anyway. I have no idea if caliper clearance would become an issue if you did use stock cobra rotors and custom wheels (assuming they have the correct offset etc)

 

What did that Master cylinder come from?

 

@James W: It doesn't say, but I would guess its an Australian car (designed for use on what we call the passenger side, their driver's side) because of where the ports exit the master cylinder. Actually it probably makes routing the lines easier, but either way it seems to be a nice piece. It bolted right up, and like I said in the write up the original brake rod fit perfectly.

 

FYI the calipers and the rotors are from a 94-04 mustang cobra. the master cylinder is the same. i have the set und it works great.
I bought my rotors and calipers of egay.
I bought the MC and the kit from street or track.

 

Probably not Australian. US MC's use both sides of the unit for plumbing. My corvette MC has matching ports on both sides. It looks like a late 90s Mustang...

Was there a Part number in the kit?