Put a volt meter on the lug for the starter, have someone turn the key. If you get 0 or very low volts then put the meter on the starter side if the solenoid and turn the key. If you have 12 volts then its the wire between the starter and solenoid. If the voltage is low, move to the battery side of the solenoid. Turn the key, you have 12 volts then the problem is the solenoid, if the voltage is low, then move the volt meter to the batter post. Turn the key, If the voltage drops bad battery. If you have 12 v then make sure everything is clean for starter ground. My next door neighbor just went through this with his 427, there was so much crap around the starter mount, under the bolts etc that the starter didn't have a good ground.

All this provided you know that the solenoid is getting power via the ignition switch, measure that first when someone turns the key, its the small wire.

Edit for one more thing, put the volt meter between the neg post on the battery and the engine block, turn the key. If you get any voltage then you have a bad ground wire between the battery and the block.

Also not, all measurements should be with one end of the volt meter connected the negative post of the battery, not the bock.

Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to diagnose the issue.

 

It might be a good idea to figure out why the failure occurred in the first place. If you have a short it's better to locate it BEFORE it starts an electrical fire. =)

 

i'm just waiting for my buddy with a meter to come over later today.

so i think you guys are saying the problems could be:

1. bad battery cables
or
2. bad solenoid/relay
or
3. a wire shorting out somewhere
or
4. a bad starter

those are the points I got from all your responses. i'll post after we test with the meter but if you can think of anything else post as well. thanks

 

Remember that a lot of current is required for the starter; means wire to starter as well as starter ground must be able to pass a lot of current all the way to batt.

I don't recall if you already had the battery tested for current?

Should remove starter to test and to clean mating surface.

Places around here test batteries and starters for free.

Sorry if you already did the above.

 

Thanks to everyone, after the advice this happened:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80vbwXZwKhQ

it was ONE wire holding up the entire project.

 

Which one wire?

 

Me too.

Would like to know which one wire.

 

on my instrument gauge feed loom. my engine temp wire was getting 12v and the wire going to the ignition coil wire was obviously not, causing no spark. the way the loom came looked like it was cut to fit perfectly, but i got it wrong. the wire getting 12v was red/green and the one not getting it was red/white which is usually the "hot" wire. so either i'm too dumb and crossed them up or the wires were put together wrong

 

That shouldn't cause the motor not to turn over. I can see it causing it not to start. But I'm not a Ford guy. What's not making sense here?

 

Did you have multiple problems?

I thought your car was working one day then just stopped working next day.

Or did it stop working following a wiring change?