Rear brakes locked.
Hey all,
I just took my 65 mustang out of the garage for the first time in about a year and a half. We noticed the rear wheels were not turning. I assume the the rear brakes are locked up. If so what is the easiest way to free them up. Need to put it back in before winter. The e-brake is not on.
I just took my 65 mustang out of the garage for the first time in about a year and a half. We noticed the rear wheels were not turning. I assume the the rear brakes are locked up. If so what is the easiest way to free them up. Need to put it back in before winter. The e-brake is not on.
If both are locked up the maybe master cylinder residual pressure valve, prop valve, etc. is holding pressure.
I would bleed both wheel cylinders of pressure.
I would adjust both shoes to full loose.
I would verify that e brake cable is not sticking.
If drum won't come off after best effort you can grind ends off of shoe pins.
I would bleed both wheel cylinders of pressure.
I would adjust both shoes to full loose.
I would verify that e brake cable is not sticking.
If drum won't come off after best effort you can grind ends off of shoe pins.
If it as me i would just pull the wheels off and bang on the drums some to loosen them up. its probably the drum surface getting a bit of rust on them from sitting and causing the shoes to grab. After the drums come loose then take some sand paper to them to clean them up. There is no use over thinking this until you know its not something simple like rust.
Would both rear tires will skid if car is pulled w/ a chain???
Or are you just turning them by hand???
I have seen a car that was outside for many years where one tire would skid.
On that car the brake shoe practically welded itself to the drum.
Was able to loosen by removing wheel, putting lug nuts on half way, Taping a pry bar (positioned between lugs) w/ sledge and also taping drum w/ sledge.
Since your car was in garage and both rear wheels are frozen I thought that the shoes are swollen from leaked fluid or pressure is built up in rear line or e brake not releasing.
Or are you just turning them by hand???
I have seen a car that was outside for many years where one tire would skid.
On that car the brake shoe practically welded itself to the drum.
Was able to loosen by removing wheel, putting lug nuts on half way, Taping a pry bar (positioned between lugs) w/ sledge and also taping drum w/ sledge.
Since your car was in garage and both rear wheels are frozen I thought that the shoes are swollen from leaked fluid or pressure is built up in rear line or e brake not releasing.
Yes both tires skid when it was pulled out of the garage.
Would both rear tires will skid if car is pulled w/ a chain???
Or are you just turning them by hand???
I have seen a car that was outside for many years where one tire would skid.
On that car the brake shoe practically welded itself to the drum.
Was able to loosen by removing wheel, putting lug nuts on half way, Taping a pry bar (positioned between lugs) w/ sledge and also taping drum w/ sledge.
Since your car was in garage and both rear wheels are frozen I thought that the shoes are swollen from leaked fluid or pressure is built up in rear line or e brake not releasing.
Or are you just turning them by hand???
I have seen a car that was outside for many years where one tire would skid.
On that car the brake shoe practically welded itself to the drum.
Was able to loosen by removing wheel, putting lug nuts on half way, Taping a pry bar (positioned between lugs) w/ sledge and also taping drum w/ sledge.
Since your car was in garage and both rear wheels are frozen I thought that the shoes are swollen from leaked fluid or pressure is built up in rear line or e brake not releasing.
Adjust shoes by pushing tool up (against the ratchet effect); should push ratchet bracket out.
Likely only have to bleed pressure off only one rear wheel cylinder.
If you get frustrated getting those succas off it may be easier to grind heads off shoe attachment pins. Stop grinding when head weakened then punch pins thru hole. Have spare pins in hand before grinding.
Sometimes you have to get a lil firm w/ da sledge. I don't like to beat car too much; many say it wont hurt.
Can use torch w/ rosebud if you are very careful not to over heat; good judgment required..
I never seem to have luck w/ penetrating oil but I let it soak none the less.
If drums have a lot of miles they may need replacing. New drums are pretty cheap these days. Another option is to cut drums and replace.
Likely only have to bleed pressure off only one rear wheel cylinder.
If you get frustrated getting those succas off it may be easier to grind heads off shoe attachment pins. Stop grinding when head weakened then punch pins thru hole. Have spare pins in hand before grinding.
Sometimes you have to get a lil firm w/ da sledge. I don't like to beat car too much; many say it wont hurt.
Can use torch w/ rosebud if you are very careful not to over heat; good judgment required..
I never seem to have luck w/ penetrating oil but I let it soak none the less.
If drums have a lot of miles they may need replacing. New drums are pretty cheap these days. Another option is to cut drums and replace.
Last edited by 001mustang; Nov 10, 2010 at 01:03 PM. Reason: 67t5ponycoupe adjustment correction
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