Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Tank armor

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
There are a number of recorded cases of early Mustangs and fire that was not contained outside the trunk volume. Maybe not too many, and publicity hasn't been what it was with the Pinto. But the "wrong" one only needs to be a problem once . . .

There is also a sheetmetal panel that can be fitted behind the rear seatback, which also adds some vehicle stiffness - and is probably better at increasing the general chassis torsional stiffness than the tankarmor piece is. Torsional stiffness goes toward being able to tune your handling, so there's some performance benefits to be had. You do give up any "pass-through" capability between the trunk and the passenger compartment. I don't know who makes it, or if it's even still available, but it shouldn't be a very tough DIY fabrication project if it came down to that.


Norm
Thanks Norm. The rear seat back is on the list for both keeping the trunk space separate from the occupied spaceand for the torsional stiffness it adds to the car. I'm also focusing on the front end, have a few ideas but nothing set in stone yet.
Old Dec 8, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
There is also a sheetmetal panel that can be fitted behind the rear seatback, which also adds some vehicle stiffness - and is probably better at increasing the general chassis torsional stiffness than the tankarmor piece is. Torsional stiffness goes toward being able to tune your handling, so there's some performance benefits to be had. You do give up any "pass-through" capability between the trunk and the passenger compartment. I don't know who makes it, or if it's even still available, but it shouldn't be a very tough DIY fabrication project if it came down to that.

Norm
I have the sheet metal panel too (I'm really paranoid about burning fuel). I got mine from NPD.
Old Dec 8, 2010 | 02:55 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ozarks06
I have the sheet metal panel too (I'm really paranoid about burning fuel). I got mine from NPD.
I'll have to check NPD, I was going to just make one but if they have them its the way to go.
Old Dec 8, 2010 | 03:46 PM
  #14  
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I just cut an 18 ga pc of steel and sheet metal screwed it behind the rear seat.
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 04:00 AM
  #15  
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I've been wanting to get the steel peice that goes behind the seat. How hard it it to install that?
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:31 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tx65coupe
I've been wanting to get the steel peice that goes behind the seat. How hard it it to install that?
Pull the back seat, put up the plate, drill a bunch of holes and screw in the sheet metal screws.

There is one thing about it you should know. The large flat steel plate acts like a drum and will amplify the low-frequency exhaust noise inside the car. After I put it in I went back and welded 4 (or 6?) one-foot-long pieces of 3/4" angle steel to the plate in the large open parts to keep it from flexing. I then put sound deadener on it and put a large sound deadening mat behind the seat. That pretty much took care of the problem.

Last edited by ozarks06; Dec 13, 2010 at 08:02 AM.
Old Dec 13, 2010 | 04:44 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ozarks06
Pull the back seat, put up the plate, drill a bunch of holes and screw in the sheet metal screws.

There is one thing about it you should know. The large flat steel plate acts like a drum and will amplify the low-frequency exhaust noise inside the car. After I put it in I went back and welded 4 (or 6?) one-foot-long pieces of 3/4" angle steel to the plate in the large open parts to keep it from flexing. I then put sound deadener on it and put a large sound deadening mat behind the seat. That pretty much too car of the problem.
Thats what I was hoping for. I just thought there might be something else to it.

I didn't realize that it would do that with interior exhaust noise.
Old Dec 13, 2010 | 05:52 AM
  #18  
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That's why OE floors and other large interior/hidden panels have "grooves" rolled in them - to break up resonances and chase the modeshapes off to frequencies that won't get set off by exhaust system noise or other disturbances.

If you were DIY'ing this panel, it might be worth spending a little quality time with a bead roller.


Norm
Old Dec 14, 2010 | 03:05 AM
  #19  
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That makes sense.
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