My 65FB with a 289 currently has a very tired Holley 600 carb with a fixed manual choke. Instead of rebuilding the carb, I'm thinking about just replacing it with a 570 (Recommended by Holley website) with an electric choke. I'm tired of the car starting on the 3rd try and having to babysit it for a minute or two.

I've been reading about possible power sources for the choke. I've read you can use the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid or the S terminal on the alternator. Holley requires 12v source to the choke.

I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff, and don't want to mess things up. My car is a "weekender" and only runs about 400 miles a year. I could use some expert advice.

Thanks in advance.

 

My expert advice is to keep the manual choke.

 

Any 12v switched source is fine. Electric choke is nice because you pump the throttle once, start it and walk away.

 

Any power source that is there when the key is on and not there when the key is off will work.
I would guess that a 390 Holley would be better for you. A 289 just don't have enough cubic inch's for a 600.
Number of cubic inch's X max Rpm divided by 1/2, Every other rpm is a exhaust stroke, equals the most cubic inch's of air your engine can use if it is 100% efficient.
Lets say 289 x 2,000 (that's 4,000 RPM) = 578,000 cubic inch of air.
Now one cubic foot of air is 12x12x12 inch's or 1728 cubic inch's in one cubic foot.
Now you already figured that at 4,000 RPM your engine would need 578,000 cubic inch's of air so now we need to convert that to Cubic Feet.
578,000 divided by 1728 = 334.49 cubic feet. So unless you plan on spinning that 289 to 7,000 RPM there is no need for a 570 or 600 cfm carb.
The smaller carb will make your car start, idle, and run better.

 

I like electric chokes... and I will admit to connecting them to the + side of the coil when there is a full 12 v at the coil, (no resistor wire or ballast resistor, this won't work on a stock points setup).

Yea, I know it is against the rules, but it was just so convenient....

My Lincoln has been running that way for about 2 years on what is arguably the most "power sensitive" electronic ignition made, Mallory Unilite...

 

I ran my electric choke + off the STA (stator) post on the back of the alt. It doesn't give a full 12V so it warms the choke spring slowly so that it takes 5-10min. before the choke is fully open. This is the way Ford ran it on later model cars.
Jon

 

"S" post on ALT is what I did. If you leave the ignition key turned on for some time without the motor running it won't prematurely open the choke. The stator post only has power if the ALT is turning so the choke will be in the right position when you want to start the engine.

 

Interesting.

 

My understanding is that the original Ford carbs with electric choke only required 6-9 volts. Running the STA as a power source would be good if not for the Holley requirement of 12V. I guess if I had to wait 5-10 minutes, I would just stick with the fixed manual choke.

Thanks for the input. You validated the reduced voltage off the STA. I appreciate it.

 

i agree with staying with the manual, i would kill right now to have it instead of and auto choke.