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9" rear end oil

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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #1  
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Default 9" rear end oil

I have a 9" tru trac. I noticed a small leak and noticed there's a small crack on the plate which the spring leafs sit on. That's getting taken care of but the oil smells really burnt. I want to change the oil but don't see any drain plug. How do you change oil and what kind of oil do I need?
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Wow your bousing is cracked. That sucks. Are you removing it from the car to have it welxed shut and checed to see if its still straight? You can use 80-90 weight gear oil. I would check the true track wdbsite for reccomendations though.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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Siphon gear oil out from fill hole w/ 3/8" clear tube. Once siphon started have lunch cause will take a while.

Measure rear end temp w/ IR after interstate driving.
My unit measured about 135F; fresh rebuild.
Measures 122F (32F ambient); lapped in.
If temp is approaching 200F then time to worry.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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Rear end oil smells real bad, that's normal.

Jack the rear end up and put it on jack stands. Remove wheel and hub. There are 4 3/8 bolts (9/16 wrench) that hold the axel and backing plate to the rear end housing. Remove the 4 bolts, be carefull not to tear the gasket, move the axel out a few inches, no need to pull it all the way out, unless you just want to.
Dissconect drive shaft from rear end. There are 10 nuts that hold the rear end center section to the housing, remove the nuts and pry the center section lose from the housing, when you do this oil will come out, Really nasty smelling oil. when you pry the center section away from the housing do it up past mid point on the center section, in case you gouge the housing it wont leak. Get what ever oil tru trac recommends and a 9 inch gasket. After you get all the old oil out and throw the cloths away that got any of that oil on. Pull the center section all the way out to get all the old gasket off the housing and the center section.
Re install, put the gasket on the housing studs. remove the square 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive plug that is in the center section, (this is were you fill the rear end with oil.)
Install the center section into the housing, tighten bolts according to torque specs ( I just use a 3/8 drive and can't tighten them to tight).
Reinstall axel and backing plate, ( you can reuse this gasket if you don't tear it). Get at least 3 gts of oil. (It will probably only use 2 gt.s) Fill the center section threw the plug hole until the oil runs out, install the plug, reattach drive shaft, wheels & hubs, lift car from jack stand and put car on the ground, go have 2 beers.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:23 PM
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I think everyone is missing the fact that your axle tube is cracked through at the spring perch weld. You should probably get that checked out and re welded. Unless you think that it will be ok for the future and hold up to your driving then just get some jb weld.. clean up the area and paste it on the crack.. no more leak.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by boogerschnot
I think everyone is missing the fact that your axle tube is cracked through at the spring perch weld. You should probably get that checked out and re welded. Unless you think that it will be ok for the future and hold up to your driving then just get some jb weld.. clean up the area and paste it on the crack.. no more leak.
Im going to see if my buddy can reweld that without taking out the unit. If not, I was thinking about using jb weld. Only thing is, ive never used jb weld. How good is that stuff?
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 02:18 PM
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It is epoxy and only a car salesman would use it to stop your leak.

Must be properly welded.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Recon111
Rear end oil smells real bad, that's normal.

Jack the rear end up and put it on jack stands. Remove wheel and hub. There are 4 3/8 bolts (9/16 wrench) that hold the axel and backing plate to the rear end housing. Remove the 4 bolts, be carefull not to tear the gasket, move the axel out a few inches, no need to pull it all the way out, unless you just want to.
Dissconect drive shaft from rear end. There are 10 nuts that hold the rear end center section to the housing, remove the nuts and pry the center section lose from the housing, when you do this oil will come out, Really nasty smelling oil. when you pry the center section away from the housing do it up past mid point on the center section, in case you gouge the housing it wont leak. Get what ever oil tru trac recommends and a 9 inch gasket. After you get all the old oil out and throw the cloths away that got any of that oil on. Pull the center section all the way out to get all the old gasket off the housing and the center section.
Re install, put the gasket on the housing studs. remove the square 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive plug that is in the center section, (this is were you fill the rear end with oil.)
Install the center section into the housing, tighten bolts according to torque specs ( I just use a 3/8 drive and can't tighten them to tight).
Reinstall axel and backing plate, ( you can reuse this gasket if you don't tear it). Get at least 3 gts of oil. (It will probably only use 2 gt.s) Fill the center section threw the plug hole until the oil runs out, install the plug, reattach drive shaft, wheels & hubs, lift car from jack stand and put car on the ground, go have 2 beers.
Are you serious?

Why not siphon lube out?



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