I am thinking about tackling a full floor replace on my 67 fastback. The frame rails and rocker are fine, but there are holes in the floor. I can weld just fine, its where to put the bracing and how much bracing to keep the car from twisting up, that is the question. Any advice. Thanks!

 

Do you need to do an entire floor replacement? Do you have any pics of the floor pans? You could probably save yourself some time and money by patching with individual panels, depending on how far along the rust is....

 

Welcome to the board!

 

No the car doesn't "need" a full floorpan, but I just thought it would look nicer, and b easier to install. I just need to find out where to put the temporary braces at so the thing don't twist and flex while the floor is out. I also have the doors and glas out. It is just a shell.

 

Im ordering my floor soon! I am also replacing one full rear frame rail two quarters and some other stuff. Should be fun. I recommend sand blasting depending on how it looks! I did not notice my rear frame until I blasted it!

 

I don't think you can decide what to do until you get it blasted and see what needs replaced. IMO.

 

You will want to suport the frame in 8 spots 4 per side. under the front bumper mounts, under the front torque box area, rear torque box and under the rear frame by the rear bumper mounts. Also you will want to support the body at 4 spots under the rockers.[IMG][/IMG] This is how I did my Mustang. It is best if you can weld it to a level surface and then start cutting and welding in new parts. If it isn't an opption to build a metal frame you culd get away with some heavy duty jack stands placed in all the same spots but make sure the car is level. Also the one peice floor pans do take some work to fit properly. Good Luck. Scott

 

Thanks Scott, nice pic! I don't have a jig made for mine, I thought I could just get it level with jack stands, and then cut out the entire floor, including the center hump, and installing the new floor through the front windshield, but I heard that since the doors are off I would have to weld in temporary cross braces, to keep everything plumb, square, and level. I plan on getting dynacorns one piece full floor pan. Anyone have any experience with dynacorn?

 

Dynacorn is considered one of the top sheet metal places. They're a good choice for all sheet metal. I got my cowl from them and I like it so far.
Also, you do not necessarily need to brace the doors just for taking them out. That is done for convertibles, as seen in the post by "jgemperline" of his convertible. That's because the convertibles don't have the roof reinforcement fastbacks and coupes have.

I've had my car with the doors off and on jack stands for months now...

 

Good thats relieving, I'm a novice that may be a little particular so bare with me. I just wanna make this thing right! After I get the car up on jack stands, and off the support of the suspension, I can cut the entire floor out from the toe boards to the rear seats, and rocker to rocker. Then put the new one in through front windshield. All of this can be achieved without any other temporary supports, correct? Thanks again!