One more time. Still reading and searching. Anyone have any dealings with Jasper Engine and Transmission? A friend of mine who owns a garage and I were discussing my engine rebuild and he said he had used their engines many times with excellent results. He said he would check to see if he could get an engine for close to what he could get the parts for me for, He called and was given a price of way less than $3,000 for a 300 + hp long block engine with a 12 month warranty or 16,000 miles. Sounds like a good deal to me. The shop I would deal with is in NC. I have read a lot of good and bad on other sites tonight. They are either great or suck. Have any of you guys dealt with them recently and what is your opinion? Remember my block is a 1980 non-roller which I would have to upgrade anyway.
Thanks

 

Jasper is a top notch rebuild company. A friend of mine had a tranny installed. Not only is it warrantied, but if it breaks down they pay the towing and pay the repair at any number of shops.

 

They are the best oem rebuilders out there any engine and trans they do will get all the upgrades that most rebuilders don't do.The s10 my dad has blew the engine he had a jasper put in it after 6 years its still running prefect and my dad is hard on a car.

 

no matter what company, if you google for them you will find bad news.
But hell if scott and andy have good experience with them it would be a green flag for me, however this is not a guarante :-)

 

The police cars here use jasper engines trans and rear ends and you know how hard a cop car gets drove.

 

if you say Hertz use them as well then you have me sold. nothing more beaten than a rent-a-car j/k

 

You know, that is what I figured. I feel sure people bad mouth my company and I know how I run it and the service we try to give. Since I have backed off the 400 hp kick after a big forum discussions, I don't see how getting a Class II, 300 hp engine with a warranty for not a whole lot more than I have in my current engine is a bad deal. By my calculations this should be about 230-250 rwh, correct? I am getting mine dyno'd before I do anything just to be sure it is basically stock. 1980 stock 302 only puts out about 140 at he flywheel so it should be close to 100 at the rear. It might be a little more since I have a new 600 cfm carburetor on it. I lost a new 302 hp crate motor in my rebuild learning process. Thanks for replying. i wish I had known about this site 5 years ago before I lost enough to rebuild the car. Every penny I spend now my wife cringes and it was her idea to start with. We bought the car from a "friend" of ours who had a restoration shop and paid him most upfront. VERY STUPID and costly mistake. He went south!

 

--> I don't see how getting a Class II, 300 hp engine with a warranty for not a whole lot more than I have in my current engine is a bad deal

same opinion here

300HP at flywheel will be 240ish at wheels alright. I use 20% loss for rearwheeldriven cars with auto box. that is usually about the ballpark

i wish I had known about this site 5 years ago before I lost enough to rebuild the car.
--> same here. I buy then ask. Costly mistake to make

Kalli

 

Do you know what's included in that price, and does it match up with what you'd plan to do otherwise?

I've always assembled my own engines from a pile of parts, meaning that when the block came back from hot-tanking/boring/decking I'd get to do a THOROUGH final cleaning myself (it's not all that tough a thing to DIY). My guess is that for people who have had less than satisfactory experience that (lack of) cleanliness was at least one of the root causes - I know of one particular case where it was THE ONLY cause.

Worst case, you could still do this DIY cleaning on an assembled reman short block. It would cost you a few gaskets, one bolt torquing cycle on everything, and the disassembly/reassembly, but you'd have the peace of mind that it really was clean inside and you would have the opportunity to check clearances.

Are you going to be particular about things like file-fit rings, compression ratio, quench height, and actual components?


Norm

 

My only concern would be "is the engine serviceable in the future?" If they bored it to the max or if they turned the crank you might be buying a motor that is not rebuildable in the future. This may or may not be an issue to you.

I get nervous when I see things like "approximate" in their literature. If they have the specs they should know exactly.