Actually tri-y headers are usually more expensive when comparably built, because they're more complex to design and assemble. And larger has nothing to do with LT vs tri-y, size is based on what tubing sizes are used in construction. Tri-y's tend to be more compact in design though, so they usually are easier to package in a car.

And did you not read most of this thread? Long tubes aren't "doing it right" or even the best choice in most cases for standard V8's. If they were, why do you see basically every NASCAR Cup engine and SCCA road racing car with standard 90* V8's running tri-y's?

 

i wouldn't get too worked up with the exhaust pulsing with our V8s. a lot of companies sell equal length headers so the pulses come into the collector at the same intervals they left the bank. however there was never any dyno result to prove that this actually helps performance.
for the clearance: here's the hooker super comp for you. I'm not banging it so i'm not worried. But it really couldn't be any lower

bare in mind this is header specific, not for all LTs. Even worse the angles the two headers are coming out under the floor are different. So any prefab system you could not fit. It's cutting and welding from there:

 

The thing with pulse tuning, when it's done properly the pulse wave that hits the collector generates a negative wave that moves back up ALL the primaries(in 4-1 LT's). Ideally it not only aides the cylinder it's on, but goes back up a primary for a cylinder nearing the end of it's exhaust stroke (180* apart in firing order for instance) and generates negative pressure at the exhaust port on an exhaust cycle nearing it's end, and helps boost the last part of the exhaust stroke.

Works great on Ferraris and F1 engines with the single plane crank and headers that have perfect 180* exhaust pulses. You can design a stepped header that ideally aides multiple cylinders. But it doesn't work on American V8's because the pulse order is all over the place.

That's why the best criteria for selecting a header on American V8's is tubing size and length for the purposes of getting exhaust gas out without having too much restriction, but keeping gas velocity high. Since pulse tuning is mostly a joke until you get into the custom made stepped race headers that cost thousands of dollars.

 

dude no way tri y are more expensive, what planet you from?

 

Good tri-y's are expensive. Good headers period are expensive. Most tri-y's SEEM to cost less because they're poorly made with cheap material. A standard y junction with thin wall steel and a flimsy flange. They're the equivalent of a $130 set of LT's made in China. Compare good tri-y's to good LT's. Good tri-y's use good material and stepped merge junctions. The only 3 companies right now that I'd even recommend buying tri-y's for a street car for are Doug's, JBA and FPA, though there may be others, and there's also the custom built option from some place like Kooks or Burns.

The Doug's tri-y I run cost about the same as their LT's do now, both coated the LT's currently cost only $20 more but are made using far more material. When I bought my tri-y's the same LT header(that's $20 more now) was about $50 LESS at the time. LT's now may be more expensive generally, because the price of metal and other material has gone way up in the last few years. And that includes materials used in the coating process. But steels in particular are more expensive right now, ESPECIALLY stainless costs.

If you're paying significantly more for an LT than for a good tri-y, then you're getting ripped off. Hooker is notorious for that, their coated headers are quite expensive, and many people have all sorts of fitment and ground clearance issues with them. Companies like Doug's and JBA etc have always made better quality headers that fit well for less money.

Good tri-y's vs good LT's are usually both in about the same price ballpark, with tri-y's typically being more costly. But like I said, right now due to material costs some LT's are likely more expensive(especially stainless). Even so, the prices are usually close enough one way or the other to make cost factor of minimal significance. Pick a set of tri-y or LT that works well, fits well and is made well, they're going to be close enough in price that cost likely won't decide which ones get purchased.

 

Hooker super comps.

 

Don't drive over any speed bumps

 

well haven't I posted about them somewhere in the thread?
Anyway ... before you attach them to the engine what you want to do is clear them up a bit. They have a weld at the flange that was ground down so it snugs the header gasket nicely. Like a weld flattened down. make sure that is all really straight and cosey.
Then take one header bolt and see if you can actually stick that from the outside into every header hole. In some cases (especially the middle tubes behind the tube) you can't even get the bolt in. so you'll have to do a bit of banging with hammer or so. When you are at engine start with the most awkward bolts. i think the worst are at the back of #1, #2,#3 cylinder. just to the back of the pipe. make sure you get them all started then slowly go from one to another to pull the header towards the gasket. don't go too far with any of the bolts because it will cause one of the others to stop the header going further. go to the next bolt. the front bolts are all easy.
I have so much practise with them I can change a header gasket in under 20mins. some might laugh now, but I challenge you. Come over and beat my time ... :-]

Just make sure you can get all bolts in straight in before you go anywhere near the engine with it. Will save you a lot of time and probably the top 10 of your curses ;-)

 

Lots of super comp bashing but the hooker 6208s that I have on my windsor tuck up nice and tight to the floor...Kali makes some excellent points about header bolt installation..Make sure you start all of the bolts on the header before tightening any of them..The bolts on the inside of the pipe curves cannot usually be started after the header flange is tight to the head...You may have to tighten them all gradually depending on how tight the bends in the pipes are...Also before tightening all of the bolts I usually just install a couple of end bolts to tighten the header to the head..Then make sure you can get a spark plug socket on all of the plugs..I have had headers that needed a bit of clearancing on the flange to allow the socket onto the plug..Pain in the *** to discover this after you have it all bolted up and then have to remove the header again...

 

Thanks for the advice guys! I appreciate the help.