Installing my Flamer thrower ignition coil??
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2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 334
From: Wisconsin
Installing my Flamer thrower ignition coil??
O.k. I have the old coil out and the new one in. However the instructions are telling me if my car has a ballast resistor or resistance wire i need to remove it from the coil since I am using a 3.0 OHM coil for my inline 6. Is this the wire that comes from the engine guage feed wiring harness?
I am also hooking up my Pertronix Igntion from the distributor to the coil. This is why I am confused.
I am also hooking up my Pertronix Igntion from the distributor to the coil. This is why I am confused.
Last edited by wonso79; Mar 29, 2011 at 06:07 PM.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,188
From: 1984
You have a pink resistor wire from the ignition switch to the wiring harness connector at the firewall that reduces the voltage to the coil. This is the stock setup to keep the points from burning up. At least that's how it is for the 8s, I imagine it's the same for the 6s.
You can use splice connectors to run a solid wire in parallel with the pink wire, just attach the new wire as close to the switch as you can at one end, and as close to the connector as you can at the other end. The idea is to eliminate as much of the pink wire as possible.
Or cut the pink wire and run just a solid wire in its place.
Either way will bring the voltage up to 12 which is what the coil is designed to use.
You can use splice connectors to run a solid wire in parallel with the pink wire, just attach the new wire as close to the switch as you can at one end, and as close to the connector as you can at the other end. The idea is to eliminate as much of the pink wire as possible.
Or cut the pink wire and run just a solid wire in its place.
Either way will bring the voltage up to 12 which is what the coil is designed to use.
Last edited by Oxnard Montalvo; Mar 29, 2011 at 07:28 PM.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 66
From: oklahoma
Ive tryed that on a v8 setup and it didnt end well for me. You need to run a new wire, the plektronics will be what lets you down if you dont. I just ran a new wire that was 12volts once the key was turned on and left the other in place. I melted my wiring going to the voltage regulator before I learnt that one.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,246
From: Upland, California
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
as said it works for some, not for others.
bypassign the wire is actually very simple just like oxnard says. you don't need to cut anything
get the dash cluster out and from the ignition switch there is a green/black wire about 2 inch long and this then changes color (after a connector) to pink color.
Simply get split connectors (you know the ones that cut into the original and the new cable) and attach one at the front of the pink wire with a new cable running parallel and do the same thing at the back of the pink wire.
if you ever want to remove it just open the connectors. Job done.
the pink wire is actually resisting current, so you basically attach a non-resisting wire (normal cable) parallel to it so the power goes through that. voila! full 12V at coil
bypassign the wire is actually very simple just like oxnard says. you don't need to cut anything
get the dash cluster out and from the ignition switch there is a green/black wire about 2 inch long and this then changes color (after a connector) to pink color.
Simply get split connectors (you know the ones that cut into the original and the new cable) and attach one at the front of the pink wire with a new cable running parallel and do the same thing at the back of the pink wire.
if you ever want to remove it just open the connectors. Job done.
the pink wire is actually resisting current, so you basically attach a non-resisting wire (normal cable) parallel to it so the power goes through that. voila! full 12V at coil