306 build up
#1
306 build up
Now i hate asking people to guess my hp but i can't take it anymore so i want to hear some numbers if i could thanks in advanced
-302 block over .30(306)
-Flat top 4 vavle relief pistons
-windage tray
-7qt front sump oil pan
-stock crank and rods with arp hardware
-Hydraulic Flat Tappet,292/292, Lift .512/.512........maybe
-650 Holly or a 600 Double pumper(need to pick one)
-Longtube headers,H pipe,2 1/2 to the axle
-stock c4
-8 inch 3.00 rearend
HEADS
-289 that will be fully PP
-oversize valves
-Roller rockers
-Eddie performer intake matched to heads when they are done.
motor is not in the car yet so some of this can and will change most is done. Again thanks
-302 block over .30(306)
-Flat top 4 vavle relief pistons
-windage tray
-7qt front sump oil pan
-stock crank and rods with arp hardware
-Hydraulic Flat Tappet,292/292, Lift .512/.512........maybe
-650 Holly or a 600 Double pumper(need to pick one)
-Longtube headers,H pipe,2 1/2 to the axle
-stock c4
-8 inch 3.00 rearend
HEADS
-289 that will be fully PP
-oversize valves
-Roller rockers
-Eddie performer intake matched to heads when they are done.
motor is not in the car yet so some of this can and will change most is done. Again thanks
#2
Someone will inevitably plug this into desktop dyno, and I'll leave that part to them, but I've got some build comments for you.
Why are you spending that much money on working over the factory heads? For a bit more money, you could probably get a set of aftermarket heads that flow better out of the box.
The 3.00:1 gears and stock torque converter are going to bog the motor down with a cam like the one you're talking about. You'll get more performance gain from switching to 3.55's or the like and picking up a torque converter matched to the cam than you will out of rebuilding the motor.
Stay away from the double pumper. You'll need a stick and/or low gears to pull that off.
Why are you spending that much money on working over the factory heads? For a bit more money, you could probably get a set of aftermarket heads that flow better out of the box.
The 3.00:1 gears and stock torque converter are going to bog the motor down with a cam like the one you're talking about. You'll get more performance gain from switching to 3.55's or the like and picking up a torque converter matched to the cam than you will out of rebuilding the motor.
Stay away from the double pumper. You'll need a stick and/or low gears to pull that off.
#3
Someone will inevitably plug this into desktop dyno, and I'll leave that part to them, but I've got some build comments for you.
Why are you spending that much money on working over the factory heads? For a bit more money, you could probably get a set of aftermarket heads that flow better out of the box.
The 3.00:1 gears and stock torque converter are going to bog the motor down with a cam like the one you're talking about. You'll get more performance gain from switching to 3.55's or the like and picking up a torque converter matched to the cam than you will out of rebuilding the motor.
Stay away from the double pumper. You'll need a stick and/or low gears to pull that off.
Why are you spending that much money on working over the factory heads? For a bit more money, you could probably get a set of aftermarket heads that flow better out of the box.
The 3.00:1 gears and stock torque converter are going to bog the motor down with a cam like the one you're talking about. You'll get more performance gain from switching to 3.55's or the like and picking up a torque converter matched to the cam than you will out of rebuilding the motor.
Stay away from the double pumper. You'll need a stick and/or low gears to pull that off.
#4
haven't shoved it in the desktop dyno, but i don't think it matters if its 280 or 320. it probably will be around 300 at flywheel I'd guess. depending on how it's build. missing info like Compression ratio, valve sizes, exact cam, specs and how high (rpm) you'd dare spinning this
#6
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