new to mustangs, little help please:)
06-20-2011, 01:28 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 9
new to mustangs, little help please:)
Hi all, im the proud owner of a ford mustang 1966 289 v8, all nice and pretty standard just got a few issues i want to sort out.
the top of the radiator has what looks like an overflow pipe which goes into a plastic bottle. When engine is running small amounts of water flow through this tube into the bottle. The engine doesnt overheat but this doesnt seem right, have you any ideas? I know the carbs were refurbed a little while back, does the choke work off the water temperature?
Also i have a slight leak from the automatic gearbox, im not sure were it is coming from, what is it like to drop the box and change the seals?
Any help greatly received, thanks
the top of the radiator has what looks like an overflow pipe which goes into a plastic bottle. When engine is running small amounts of water flow through this tube into the bottle. The engine doesnt overheat but this doesnt seem right, have you any ideas? I know the carbs were refurbed a little while back, does the choke work off the water temperature?
Also i have a slight leak from the automatic gearbox, im not sure were it is coming from, what is it like to drop the box and change the seals?
Any help greatly received, thanks
06-20-2011, 02:11 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 678
Welcome to the madness, may be fairly easy issues to fix.
First off the radiator overflow 'catchcan' should be 1/2 full when the car is cold. This is a give and take system, as the engine heats up and the cooling fluid expands it flows into the overflow can (~1/2qt.), as it cools it will draw back what is needed. If the catchcan is overfilling you may have too much coolant in the system, likewise if it's empty cold it's down on cooling fluid.
There were a few different choke systems, most common I've seen work off of the engine heat with tube that goes into the intake. Some have a clip that holds the heater hose against the choke to warm it faster too.
If the choke is not opening fully or closing fully you can adjust the plastic cap on the side but you'll need to drill out the rivets that hold it on and replace with self tapping machine screws. Turning the cap CW, CCW will adjust the choke. I would make sure the carb linkage is clean and the butterfly move freely (spray carb. cleaner) before fiddling with the choke rivets.
The leaking trans could be many areas, anywhere there is a seal - O-ring for the dipstick, trans. pan gasket are the only 2 I can think of that you can change with the trans in car. Front seal leak (dripping out of bellhousing) means it has to come out. Rear seal can be changed after dropping the driveshaft. There are other seals on the shifter linkage, etc. but that would be a trans rebuild normally and not as common as the above mentioned. Wipe it clean real good and check it after a short drive to see the origination of the leak. There should be and access panel at the bottom middle of the front trans bellhousing to get a better look at the front seal area.
Jon
First off the radiator overflow 'catchcan' should be 1/2 full when the car is cold. This is a give and take system, as the engine heats up and the cooling fluid expands it flows into the overflow can (~1/2qt.), as it cools it will draw back what is needed. If the catchcan is overfilling you may have too much coolant in the system, likewise if it's empty cold it's down on cooling fluid.
There were a few different choke systems, most common I've seen work off of the engine heat with tube that goes into the intake. Some have a clip that holds the heater hose against the choke to warm it faster too.
If the choke is not opening fully or closing fully you can adjust the plastic cap on the side but you'll need to drill out the rivets that hold it on and replace with self tapping machine screws. Turning the cap CW, CCW will adjust the choke. I would make sure the carb linkage is clean and the butterfly move freely (spray carb. cleaner) before fiddling with the choke rivets.
The leaking trans could be many areas, anywhere there is a seal - O-ring for the dipstick, trans. pan gasket are the only 2 I can think of that you can change with the trans in car. Front seal leak (dripping out of bellhousing) means it has to come out. Rear seal can be changed after dropping the driveshaft. There are other seals on the shifter linkage, etc. but that would be a trans rebuild normally and not as common as the above mentioned. Wipe it clean real good and check it after a short drive to see the origination of the leak. There should be and access panel at the bottom middle of the front trans bellhousing to get a better look at the front seal area.
Jon
06-20-2011, 02:26 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 9
thanks very much for your help, that has helped me a lot. what is it like to drop the automatic gearbox? ive got a triumph stag also which is manual and managed to drop that myself and change the clutch.
do you think there is a chance it could be the heads on the engine making the coolant overflow into the bottle?
also what is the engine starting procedure on these engines? i notice some people pump the throttle (gas) a few times before starting the engine
thanks very much for your help
do you think there is a chance it could be the heads on the engine making the coolant overflow into the bottle?
also what is the engine starting procedure on these engines? i notice some people pump the throttle (gas) a few times before starting the engine
thanks very much for your help
06-20-2011, 02:58 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The garage (near SF bay- Calif)
Posts: 469
Coolant expands when it gets hot, so it has no where to go but into the bottle.
All cars do that, it has nothing to do with heads.
As for starting, it depends on how long it's been sitting. If it's been sitting for weeks, you may have to pump the gas peddle alot to get the gas back into the carb.
All cars do that, it has nothing to do with heads.
As for starting, it depends on how long it's been sitting. If it's been sitting for weeks, you may have to pump the gas peddle alot to get the gas back into the carb.
06-20-2011, 09:58 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
i need to pump the gas 1-2 times if the car is cold (i drive it everyday) if it sits for a week then you may need 10 pumps (just a number, point is more then usual) if the car is warm, eg if you just drove the car 5 miles and went into target to buy somethin when you get out you may need to hold the gas down while cranking, this is the proper technique (specified in the owners manual) make sure you choke is adjusted properly! this makes the difference between happily leaving in the morning or sitting for 10 mins while you feather the gas to keep the car alive.
06-21-2011, 03:10 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 9
the car is hard to start when the engine is hot, takes about a minute or so to start of cranking over. the previous owner said this is because of heat. what do you lot think the problem is, its annoying when i stop to get petrol (gas) and then the car doesnt start