Ignition Selection Advice (w/ pics)
I want to put a PerTronix II in my 302 which still has points. There seem to be a lot of different options and I wanted to make sure I got the right one.
Here is a current pic of my system

I was looking at this full plug and play system
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-D130700/
or just replacing the inards
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-91281/
I have a 302 v8 4 barrel and a holley carb....would either work? Any suggestions? I would get a coil as well.
Here is a current pic of my system
I was looking at this full plug and play system
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-D130700/
or just replacing the inards
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-91281/
I have a 302 v8 4 barrel and a holley carb....would either work? Any suggestions? I would get a coil as well.
I actually just installed the Pertonix II distributor. I had been previously running the original Pertronix with my original distributor. I never had a single issue with the Pertronix. The reason for my replacement was my distributor had developed significant slop. I used the 15% discount that CJ Pony does a few times a year, which brought it to about $185.
What shape is your distributor in? I can't say I'm familiar with that vacuum advance.
What shape is your distributor in? I can't say I'm familiar with that vacuum advance.
I actually just installed the Pertonix II distributor. I had been previously running the original Pertronix with my original distributor. I never had a single issue with the Pertronix. The reason for my replacement was my distributor had developed significant slop. I used the 15% discount that CJ Pony does a few times a year, which brought it to about $185.
What shape is your distributor in? I can't say I'm familiar with that vacuum advance.
What shape is your distributor in? I can't say I'm familiar with that vacuum advance.
No clue actually but it looks like the full distributor has a bit tougher install than just adding the pert II and coil. How was your install? The instructions talk about cranking the engine to full compression and I am guessing I wont be able to do that on the street.
I actually just installed the Pertonix II distributor. I had been previously running the original Pertronix with my original distributor. I never had a single issue with the Pertronix. The reason for my replacement was my distributor had developed significant slop. I used the 15% discount that CJ Pony does a few times a year, which brought it to about $185.
What shape is your distributor in? I can't say I'm familiar with that vacuum advance.
What shape is your distributor in? I can't say I'm familiar with that vacuum advance.
Thanks for the tip...called CJ Pony and got the same sale on that, 9mm wires. Too bad they were out of plugs.
The distributor swap will be quick and easy. Just pay attention to where your existing distributor rotor is pointing. Maybe even take a digital picture if you're paranoid. Then drop in the new distributor with the new rotor pointing in the same direction (or at least very close). Last, move the wires one by one from the old cap to the new cap in the same relative position. Final timing will need a timing gun, but you should be close to get it started.
Remember that the distributor shaft will twist slightly when coming out and going in due to the helical cut gears. Just pay attention when you pull the old one and reverse when you stab the new distributor.
I've been very happy with the Pertronix distributor. Glad you were able to utilize the sale (and free shipping)!
Remember that the distributor shaft will twist slightly when coming out and going in due to the helical cut gears. Just pay attention when you pull the old one and reverse when you stab the new distributor.
I've been very happy with the Pertronix distributor. Glad you were able to utilize the sale (and free shipping)!
Last edited by crunchyskippy; Jul 22, 2011 at 03:14 PM.
The distributor swap will be quick and easy. Just pay attention to where your existing distributor rotor is pointing. Maybe even take a digital picture if you're paranoid. Then drop in the new distributor with the new rotor pointing in the same direction (or at least very close). Last, move the wires one by one from the old cap to the new cap in the same relative position. Final timing will need a timing gun, but you should be close to get it started.
Remember that the distributor shaft will twist slightly when coming out and going in due to the helical cut gears. Just pay attention when you pull the old one and reverse when you stab the new distributor.
I've been very happy with the Pertronix distributor. Glad you were able to utilize the sale (and free shipping)!
Remember that the distributor shaft will twist slightly when coming out and going in due to the helical cut gears. Just pay attention when you pull the old one and reverse when you stab the new distributor.
I've been very happy with the Pertronix distributor. Glad you were able to utilize the sale (and free shipping)!
So as long as it drops in the same with the minor turning I dont need to crank the engine to any particular point? Would this be a good opp to give it to my shop to make sure my timing is right along with my mixture?
you could always moved the engine to TDC before you remove the old dizzy. This will be easy to do as you can use the old dizzy and timing marks on the damper wheel to verify TDC. if the rotor is just about at plug 1 and the marks say TDC on the damper wheel you are good to go.
This doesn't really pertain to the ignition issue...but please, please get that piece of crap Edelbrock "air cleaner" off your car. It's almost completely useless for filtering anything out of the air smaller than a bird, and it's flammable to boot.
however if you do and end up with let's say the most standard round hipo air cleaner then you won't fit any of those aftermarket distributors that have the coil on the cap. some do, but they proably raised the carb and or cleaner.
as for just getting the inards. I was supposed to do that twice recently with friends cars, but in both cases I recommended the full distributor since in both the baseplate was dodgy and worse: the spindle had play to left/right. you never get consistenst sparks between the cylinders like that. what i mean with that is one cylinder will fire +-5 degress before or after in relation to another cylinder. you time it for #1 10 degrees as exaple and the next one will be 12. depending on how bad the spindle is.
I had that one for ages. it's very simple bolt in and works with a stock type coil:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-D130700/
(based on stockish 289)
I sold mine 3 months ago to a friend with a 289 and he's happy out.
as with swapping a distributor, you need to have someone with you who's done it before otherwise you'll come back with a new post: car does not start. and you WILL need a timing gun!!!!! don't time by ear


