When tightening down the rocker arms (with the particular cylinder at TDC on compression stroke, i.e. both valves closed) spin the pushrod with your fingers while tichtening down the rocker arms until it starts to drag. You'll feel it. When it starts to drag, tighten another 1/2 turn.

When installing the cam, make sure the dot on the crank sprocket is pointing up and the cam is oriented so that the sprocket for it will have the corresponding marks pointing down, toward the dot on the crank sprocket. With the (new) timing chain installed, the marks on each sprocket should line up when the #1 cylinder is at TDC.

Hope this helps!

 

Oh and to make it easier, I start with cylinder #1 and once that one is done, rotate the engine 1/4 turn and proceed to the next cylinder in the firing order. Once you have completed the firing order (2 complete revolutions), go through it one more time just to make sure.

 

cool, thanks.

do you guys suggest replacing all the bearings at this point too?

 

I would, bearings are cheap since you have the engine torn down.

 

which set do you recommend? i see a few differnent ones on cjpony and they have a big difference in price, would i be able to find all the bearing in a set (pistons, crank shaft, camshaft)

also how do i get the cam bearings out?

 

One little note to not confuse a first timer. When adjusting the rocker arms, rather than turn the pushrods and feel for drag, move the pushrods up and down while tightening the rocker. Once you feel it no longer moves up and down, NOW is the time to turn it the 1/2 turn extra for proper preload. Using the "turning" method, it's easy for someone not familiar with the feel to add too much preload.

 

thanks alot guys

 

How much do you care about doing it right? If you put in a new cam, degree it and don't just install it dot-to-dot. Even the best cams may be off. Will 2 degrees make a difference.....enough in my book.
When adjusting the push rods, rotate the crank, just as the intake valve starts to close stop and adjust the exhaust. Then rotate the crank, just as the exhaust opens stop and adjust the intake. Then move to the next cylinder. When spin, wiggle, move up-and-down the push rod make sure you're not pushing down on the lifter. If they are brand new they won't be pumped up and if you're not careful you'll be pushing down on the lifter before you add the additional 1/2 - 3/4 turn. If the intake is off take a look at the first few, you'll see the lifter move.

Make sure you use plenty of assembly lube on the lifters and cam. If you're putting in new roller rockers follow the instructions carefully, with some you need to soak in lacquer thinner followed by oil before installing them.

As for replacing cam bearings (or all bearings), which I agree is a good idea since you're already there, take it to a machine shop for the cam bearings. Just be very careful when installing the cam you don't nick any of them. You can probably buy a bearing set from SummitRacing and get a better deal then from the pony shops. I haven't priced them so do double check.

 

Custom cam from Ed Curtis, but with stocks heads prolly not worth it.

 

i suggest you get a junkyard explorer motor still...... add a cobra roller cam and roller rockers and youll have 300hp! just add you stock timing cover,oil pan etc and get an adapter distributor gear and 50oz balancer with the correct bolt pattern for your lower pulley....