can i use this
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=1281D+01

with the flame thrower II coil?


thanks

 

an ignition coil is an ignition coil....

 

The original Ignitor 1 will work with either the stock ~8V coil or a 12V coil like the flamethrower.

 

cool thanks, didnt know if the higher voltage of the flamethrower II would work fine with the ignitor I

 

i'm not sure about that dual point in the link. do you have a dual point distributor? I never saw that in a classic mustang small block. you should be able to use the bog standard pertronix I module or the bog standard pertronix II module. Since you have the flamethrower II coil, i'd bypass the resistor and go with a pertronix II module. That has adaptive dwell and it switches off automatically to prevent the coil burning out (in case you forget to switch ignition off parking somewhere/waiting/testing something ....)

 

if i got a single point ignitor I it should work with my dist and the flamerthrower II coil?

like this?

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...asp?T1=1281+01

 

yes, that's the one. if you use that (pertronix I) you don't have to bypass your resistor wire. But just like in a stock car, don't leave the ignition on when the engine is not running at least not longer than a minute as that might blow the coil.

before I'd buy that I'd check if the stock distributor is any good:
- check spindle for wear. the spindle where the rotor sits on must not have any movement forward/backward side/side. It should only rotate slightly against a spring in one direction
- check the vacuum advance: leave the hose from carb attached at vacuum canister remove at carb. suck on the hose. you should feel that you can suck on it against a spring and when you do that the base plate in the distributor moves. and it should hold that vacuum, so if you suck on it until positive stop and block the hose with your tongue, the vac advance should stay in that position until you let air back in (remove tongue).
- check the baseplate, it should only move in the direction the vacuum advance can pull. no other direction. I saw a few distributors in the past where the baseplate was loose
- check on condition of cap and rotor.

why am I saying all this? if the spindle has play (worn bearings) the distributor is scrap. any other fault will cost money to repair. So if cap/rotor and vacuum advance are not working, you're already forking out plenty of money.
and a new pertronix flamethrower II distributor (that has the updated module already in it, with new cap and rotor, no play etc) costs less than 250$ (if it's a 289: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-D130700/ ) I don't want to scare you into buying a dsitributor, but at least check the spindle. if the spindle has play in a points system it will cause every cylinder to fire at a different time (i've seen up to 5 degrees difference) and with a module the cylinder with the hole might crash into the module (haven't ever heard of that happen though)

 

I have been reading HERE>>

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...light=coil+ohm

That a coil is not a coil. There are several factors that should be considered when mixing ignition components.

I try to avoid posting from other forums, but I think there is some good information here.

 

Thanks for outlining methods to check your distributor! They're all pretty straightforward and simple, too. Gonna go check mine out.

 

thanks for the input, after not finding much info, and the info i do find being iffy about doing it i just coughed up the extra cash for the ignitor II, heard there could also be a problem with the resistance between the coil and the ignitor

@kalli thats a great write up, should be added to FAQ