Norm, my point was that using a giant 1"++ front bar may not be the best thing over just using a 1" with a thin rear. A giant bar on both ends is not "better" was my point.

I personally dont like the idea of a rear bar at all, I would rather run a 1" front and a watts, at least thats my plan after speaking to a few road racers and vintage car builders.

 

It's all about balance, front vs rear bar size depends on the rest of the suspension, weight distribution, chassis stiffness etc.

That said, my entire setup is 1" drop 620 fronts with the 1" a-arm drop, 5 leaf 1.25" drop rear, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks all around, poly bushings all around, 1.125" front bar, .75" rear bar, and the front engine is even relocated down and slightly to the passenger side for better weight dynamics.

It's pretty damned stiff, but corners like a beast with moderate tire size(rear wider). It can be twitchy on really bumpy roads, so you have to counter with a bit wider steering and let the car bounce around and out into your driving slot. Still has some body roll, but body roll isn't necessarily bad,

I plan on putting a watts link in(Fays2) at some point. Helps a ton with rear axle location and lowers rear roll center. Currie now also offers a fully aluminum rear 8" center section much stronger than stock, with an all aluminum 8" axle housing with the large 3" axle tubes for larger bearings. I'll drop that in to get the unsprung mass out of the rear(like Norm said, rear solid axle leaf spring setups have a TON of unsprung mass).

Don't just throw sway bars on to reduce body roll. Figure out how the car is going to be driven.