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Electrical gremlins

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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
Rols574's Avatar
Rols574
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Default Electrical gremlins

I have some issues with headlights, brake lights and dash gauges. My headlights only work on high beams. They were working before with some tapping of the high beam button but now they just stooped working altogether and like i said, only function on high beams. My rear and exterior lights come on when i turn on the headlights but the break lights don't get brighter when i step on the brakes and lastly I've had issues with my dash for a while. I tried replacing the voltage regulator and the gauge needles would move back and forth and eventually stopped.

any ideas what the issue/s could be?

Lastly, I will be installing an ISIS system on the car and i wanted to ask any members who installed this system about the locations of their power and master cells

Thanks
Old Sep 10, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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you probably have multiple problems causing your electrical issues. Take them one at a time until there fixed. The rear bulbs have two elements, one for lights, one for brakes. the casing of the bulb is ground, and the nipples are power to each element. Either the brake switch at the brake padel under your dash is broken or the lead is broken from the switch to the lights. It's also possible the nipple contact is worn for the bulb which is often overlooked. As for your high beams, replace the switch. Get a cheap tester and chase down the issue working your way back, before the switch, after the switch, back to the lights.
Old Sep 10, 2011 | 09:55 PM
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Check your grounds really well, you may have more than one issue, but I think you for sure have some groud issues at your exterior lights.
Old Sep 11, 2011 | 05:02 AM
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@ groho - yeah i have a nagging suspicion that the brake is the result of a faulty switch. Thanks for the tips on how to find the problem. Ill also take this opportunity to upgrade my tail lights to LED bulbs.

@ JMD - I think your right as well. I pulled the dash when i replaced the regulator and saw that the harness had been splice in a few spots. It may be the case that some of the wires may be stripped and are making contact with the dash frame
Old Sep 11, 2011 | 07:47 PM
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Oxnard Montalvo
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The high beam problem could be the switch or the connector. The simplest way to get an idea as to which is the problem is to unscrew it from the floor and work it on/off in your hand. see what happens, and then wiggle the connector around to see what that does. If the results are inconclusive move on to continuity checking of both the switch and the connector. My money is on a bad connector at the switch.
Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Only one output from the H/L switch to the headlights, the switch on the floor does the hi/lo beam determination -change the switch.
For the brake lights you can have a bad switch, bad turn signal switch or bad bulbs or any of the wiring in between. Typically, if you have ground problems, the tail lights will go out when the brakes are pushed on.( I don't see that comment in your problem statement)
Not sure what exactly the dash issue is -so no comment

Start with the obvious and change the bulbs first, then the brake switch then the turn signal switch. FYI-If you put in LED bulbs you will need a different turn signal flasher to run them
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jlg2002
FYI-If you put in LED bulbs you will need a different turn signal flasher to run them
Really? wow i had no clue. What turn signal would i need? would it come with the LED kits?

Thanks for that
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Rols574
Really? wow i had no clue. What turn signal would i need? would it come with the LED kits?

Thanks for that
You may need an electronic flasher similar to NPD # 13350-4 or CA mustang #13350E ant 15 bucks and depending on how you do the LED's (replacement bulbs vs printed circuit type)
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #9  
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So i Fixed the lights and brake lights. it was indeed a bad high beam switch and brake switch issues. question to those more experienced than me. How do you switch the brake switch? I had a hell of a time contorting my body to try and reach it. I kept saying to myself "there has to be a easier way"
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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There is a retainer pin that holds the master cylinder push rod to the brake peddle arm. Remove the pin, slide off the switch and master cyl push rod at the same time. Disconnect the two wires on the switch, replace with new switch. Slide the master cyl arm into the rear of the switch, center the holes, slide both the cyl arm and switch onto the pedal rod, add the locking clip. This is a good time to replace any worn washers, bushings, etc...see the attached pic.
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brake switch.pdf (78.0 KB, 55 views)



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