EZ-EFI install
09-25-2011, 08:00 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
EZ-EFI install
So the RMP EFI sending unit was a total waste of time and money. There wasn't enough tubing length to flare it with a fitting, and I had to get the mostly useless 1/4" return plugged. Spent all day trying to get a fitting to make it work and get the return plugged(radiator shop soldered it)....then when I went to install it I noticed the return shifted, then came loose. When I pulled it out I could see it was burnt up from where it was originally soldered, so the solder never took. Have a 3/8" feed one coming from NAPA and am just plumbing the return to the drain.
Managed to get the harness into the passenger compartment. There was an existing hole(factory or otherwise) sorta near the floorboard/trans tunnel foot area on the passenger side, so I enlarged it slightly to fit the harness through, then made a "grommet" of sorts using some Moroso fire resistant oil/gas resistant foam and RTV'd it in place in the hole. Once I'm done with everything the ECU, 25a fuse and the fuel pump and main harness relays will all be inside the passenger compartment.
The FAST stuff is great, typical FAST quality. The TB has throttle shaft bearings(instead of bushings like pretty much everything else). Well machined. It has an adjustable WOT stop that I had to back out(using an .050 alan wrench, it's TINY) and put Teflon tape on so it would stay tight, then thread it back in to set the WOT stop. All their stuff is solid, and the harness kit comes with an extra 15-20ft of the black accordion wire covering to finish everything off once all the wiring is done.
2 things I didn't like were both with the pressure regulator. 1 is that the gauge port is in such a location that unless you mount the fpr on something like the shock tower for fender well in front of the shock tower, it's VERY difficult to read the gauge. Not a huge deal, since it only needs to be set once, but still annoying. The 2nd thing was the fpr bracket.....it was designed by a moron. If the fpr is bolted to the bracket, then you can't screw it to the shock tower(or whatever) since the fpr body is in the way....but since it bolts to the fpr from behind if you mount the bracket first, you can't bolt the fpr to the bracket. Solution was to buy 3 stainless 5mm hex head bolts and nylocks and mount the fpr to the bracket, then use a small wrench between the bracket and fpr to back it up while you tighten the nylocks on the other side.
That wouldn't be an issue if you had someplace to mount the fpr bracket where there was space under it to be able to screw the fpr to the bracket.
I'd say I only have about 2-4 hours on installing the FAST crap and it's 70%+ complete. The fuel system however....that's about 10+ hours and maybe 50% complete. Still need to grab another fitting or 2 and wait for the new sending unit. Run a bit more tubing and put the fittings on the hose.
Got the fuel pump bracket made though, sheet metal that's reinforced on 3 sides with angle and a piece 90* off the top to mount it flat to the underside of the trunk.....also reinforced with angle(and coped for anyone who knows what that is). Basically the bracket is completely over built, but it's so rigid that it should help cut down on vibration. Basically like mounting the pump right to the chassis, only it'll be right in front of the outlet on the sender/pickup and slightly below the tank.
Anyway, just gotta wait for crap now which has me miffed, but it should be running next weekend.
Managed to get the harness into the passenger compartment. There was an existing hole(factory or otherwise) sorta near the floorboard/trans tunnel foot area on the passenger side, so I enlarged it slightly to fit the harness through, then made a "grommet" of sorts using some Moroso fire resistant oil/gas resistant foam and RTV'd it in place in the hole. Once I'm done with everything the ECU, 25a fuse and the fuel pump and main harness relays will all be inside the passenger compartment.
The FAST stuff is great, typical FAST quality. The TB has throttle shaft bearings(instead of bushings like pretty much everything else). Well machined. It has an adjustable WOT stop that I had to back out(using an .050 alan wrench, it's TINY) and put Teflon tape on so it would stay tight, then thread it back in to set the WOT stop. All their stuff is solid, and the harness kit comes with an extra 15-20ft of the black accordion wire covering to finish everything off once all the wiring is done.
2 things I didn't like were both with the pressure regulator. 1 is that the gauge port is in such a location that unless you mount the fpr on something like the shock tower for fender well in front of the shock tower, it's VERY difficult to read the gauge. Not a huge deal, since it only needs to be set once, but still annoying. The 2nd thing was the fpr bracket.....it was designed by a moron. If the fpr is bolted to the bracket, then you can't screw it to the shock tower(or whatever) since the fpr body is in the way....but since it bolts to the fpr from behind if you mount the bracket first, you can't bolt the fpr to the bracket. Solution was to buy 3 stainless 5mm hex head bolts and nylocks and mount the fpr to the bracket, then use a small wrench between the bracket and fpr to back it up while you tighten the nylocks on the other side.
That wouldn't be an issue if you had someplace to mount the fpr bracket where there was space under it to be able to screw the fpr to the bracket.
I'd say I only have about 2-4 hours on installing the FAST crap and it's 70%+ complete. The fuel system however....that's about 10+ hours and maybe 50% complete. Still need to grab another fitting or 2 and wait for the new sending unit. Run a bit more tubing and put the fittings on the hose.
Got the fuel pump bracket made though, sheet metal that's reinforced on 3 sides with angle and a piece 90* off the top to mount it flat to the underside of the trunk.....also reinforced with angle(and coped for anyone who knows what that is). Basically the bracket is completely over built, but it's so rigid that it should help cut down on vibration. Basically like mounting the pump right to the chassis, only it'll be right in front of the outlet on the sender/pickup and slightly below the tank.
Anyway, just gotta wait for crap now which has me miffed, but it should be running next weekend.
09-25-2011, 11:10 PM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
All the issues stem from building a beastly fuel system. It'll be 600+hp capable easily once complete, probably more with the right pump. If I had to do it over and had the time, I'd have gotten a steel -8 pr -10 weld in fitting and welded it to the sump at the bottom of the tank, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort on a stock tank.
And I thought of the filler neck, but that would require routing fuel line through the trunk, and I had access to the fitting for the drain plug to go 1/4 NPT to -6 AN. So basically the entire system is -6 AN and 3/8" line(all the same size).
The FAST stuff is pretty easy, it's the fuel system that's a total pia. Tube bending, fitting makeup, routing etc.
And I thought of the filler neck, but that would require routing fuel line through the trunk, and I had access to the fitting for the drain plug to go 1/4 NPT to -6 AN. So basically the entire system is -6 AN and 3/8" line(all the same size).
The FAST stuff is pretty easy, it's the fuel system that's a total pia. Tube bending, fitting makeup, routing etc.
09-26-2011, 02:04 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: So. Cal,the O.C.
Posts: 1,538
All the issues stem from building a beastly fuel system. It'll be 600+hp capable easily once complete, probably more with the right pump. If I had to do it over and had the time, I'd have gotten a steel -8 pr -10 weld in fitting and welded it to the sump at the bottom of the tank, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort on a stock tank.
And I thought of the filler neck, but that would require routing fuel line through the trunk, and I had access to the fitting for the drain plug to go 1/4 NPT to -6 AN. So basically the entire system is -6 AN and 3/8" line(all the same size).
The FAST stuff is pretty easy, it's the fuel system that's a total pia. Tube bending, fitting makeup, routing etc.
And I thought of the filler neck, but that would require routing fuel line through the trunk, and I had access to the fitting for the drain plug to go 1/4 NPT to -6 AN. So basically the entire system is -6 AN and 3/8" line(all the same size).
The FAST stuff is pretty easy, it's the fuel system that's a total pia. Tube bending, fitting makeup, routing etc.
Last edited by Iskwezm; 09-26-2011 at 02:07 PM.
09-26-2011, 09:33 PM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
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-6 will support 600hp easily with the right pump. 60psi with a large pump is a lot of fuel. Well, n/a at least, blower engines are different since they burn more fuel. There are guys running 800hp cars with -6 lines....not that I'd do it mind you, but it can be done. I don't plan on going much over 600, if that. And if I do I'll just run a second pump and line at -6 and go to the 2nd inlet on the regulator, and up the return to -8 or -10.
That's one thing about the FAST regulator, dual inlet so you can run 2 fuel supply lines.
That's one thing about the FAST regulator, dual inlet so you can run 2 fuel supply lines.
09-26-2011, 11:54 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: So. Cal,the O.C.
Posts: 1,538
I dont know anybody that uses -6 to support 600 hp ,muchless ANY company that recommends it.I did a ALOT of research when i put together my fuel system so i know from contacting Aeromotive,Magnafuel and a couple others, they all said -6 is good for 400 hp max.
•Up to 250 HP = 5/16" or -04 AN
•Up to 375 HP = 3/8" or -06 AN
•Up to 700 HP = 1/2" or -08 AN
•Up to 1000 HP = 5/8" or -10 AN
•Up to 1500 HP = 3/4" or -12 AN
more info- http://www.centuryperformance.com/fu...e-spg-140.html
but to each their own.
•Up to 250 HP = 5/16" or -04 AN
•Up to 375 HP = 3/8" or -06 AN
•Up to 700 HP = 1/2" or -08 AN
•Up to 1000 HP = 5/8" or -10 AN
•Up to 1500 HP = 3/4" or -12 AN
more info- http://www.centuryperformance.com/fu...e-spg-140.html
but to each their own.
09-27-2011, 12:14 AM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Then you were given nonsense by whoever you talked to, since I've been running 400ish hp through 5/16" line on a carb setup that pulls suction on the line and won't flow as much fuel as a pressurized pusher(EFI) fuel system. And there are guys running in competitive drag classes pushing 600-800hp still running 3/8 factory lines and -6 hoses.
Keep in mind the fuel system that FAST sells with the EZ-EFI master kit is a 3/8" -6 setup, and that's for a 550hp setup out of the box. And FAST is arguably the best in the game at EFI setups, including fuel systems.
EFI and carb fuel systems are completely different animals as well. Pulling fuel through a line under slight suction moves way less fuel than pushing it through a line under high pressure. Engine setup also plays a role. A blower engine will consume more fuel for the same horsepower level due to higher BSFC values.
Pumps muddy things up as well, fuel flow DECREASES as pressure increases. So guys up pressure to get more fuel flow, but without a pump that can still supply the volume, fuel flow decreases below what the engine needs.
Keep in mind the fuel system that FAST sells with the EZ-EFI master kit is a 3/8" -6 setup, and that's for a 550hp setup out of the box. And FAST is arguably the best in the game at EFI setups, including fuel systems.
EFI and carb fuel systems are completely different animals as well. Pulling fuel through a line under slight suction moves way less fuel than pushing it through a line under high pressure. Engine setup also plays a role. A blower engine will consume more fuel for the same horsepower level due to higher BSFC values.
Pumps muddy things up as well, fuel flow DECREASES as pressure increases. So guys up pressure to get more fuel flow, but without a pump that can still supply the volume, fuel flow decreases below what the engine needs.