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Advice on a Radiator for 68 Stang

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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 09:41 PM
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ChameleonAlley
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Default Advice on a Radiator for 68 Stang

Hello all,

My 68 Mustang currently has a 3 core radiator on it. The engine is a 289. My car constantly overheats after about 20-30 minutes of driving in weather over about 85 degrees. I'm looking for a sufficient radiator that will not overheat. I didn't want to add extra fans, just would like a radiator that will work. Any advice? Thanks a ton!!
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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Sounds like something's up, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's related to the radiator. When is it overheating? Stop and go traffic? Or freeway speeds? Is the coolant a clear green/yellow color, or does it have little brown particles floating in it? Is it holding pressure, or are there coolant leaks? Do you have a fan shroud? What kind of fan are you running (stock 4 blade, 5-6 blade, clutch fan, etc)?

Generally a 3-row copper/brass unit is enough for most cars, as long as it's a decent unit. Some of the cheaper units are skimpy on fins and don't cool quite as well, but 85F isn't really what I'd call hot, which leads me to believe you have other problems.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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Thanks for the reply!! That is the weird thing. I haven't had the car in my care for about 10 years. It is the same radiator as when I previously had the car 10 years ago, and it did not overheat. Their are no leaks that I can see whatsoever. There is nothing floating and I've made sure it has distilled water and coolant. Maybe something is wrong with the radiator due to age. I do have a fan shroud. I'm not sure on the fan blades. The car overheats mainly in town after driving awhile and then coming to a stop for a long time, like at a train or long red light. I could replace the radiator with another 3 core, but I'd hate to run into the same issue.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:55 AM
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I'd try giving the system a good flush or backflush with cleaner first, no telling what was done or not done to the coolant for those 10yrs. You might call a rad shop and see what they charge to boil out the rad. If you take the cap off you can see the 3 rows of tubes running back to front and they are pinched into an oval shape, see if they are all clogged up. You can push a small screwdriver into one to see what the hole size should be.

What thermostat are you running and have you changed it since getting the car? Could be too low (160*) or stuck/sticking, usually worth the <$10 to put a fresh stant in and a new cap.
Jon
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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If you end up needing a new radiator try a Champion aluminum radiator. They are very reasonable and since putting one in my 65 I can't get the car to heat over 170 even in 100 degree temps.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Ha, that was the exact radiator I was going to get today!! So, the Champions are alright? The guy I talked to at Champion said they work great.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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I would definitely recommend a Champion. I have had one in my 65 for 2 years now with no problems. One of our club members is running one as well and likes it.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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Thank you so much!! That's great to hear, as they are pretty inexpensive and that was the way I was wanting to go. I might go ahead and change the thermostat while I'm at it, just to make sure. I really appreciate the input.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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Ok, dumb question but does anyone know what temperature I need to get the thermostat at? I see too low is 160. Thanks a ton!!
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ChameleonAlley
Ok, dumb question but does anyone know what temperature I need to get the thermostat at? I see too low is 160. Thanks a ton!!
I believe 185 is normal operating temp so if you get one around there so you can tell whether you are running hot or cold. A little swing in either direction is fine.

I run the 3 row Champion with a true SPAL fan (not the junk they give you) and I have been really happy with it.



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