1969 302 Help
#12
You may also want to check that the firing order is correct for the cam you have installed and the plugs are indeed wired to the right order. There are two kinds of carb popping - a single instance when the throttle is opened that eventually goes away or multiple pops that usually indicate the valve is open in a cyl when it shouldn't be.
#15
Here is a link to the cam it shows 1968-1984 for the 302,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K3601/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K3601/
#17
what does the compression test say?
if the firing order is wrong the compression test will still check out perfectly fine.
the cam card says:
1962-up Ford-Mercury V-8 221-302 cu in (except 1982-up 302 H.O.)
doesn't really help much. you could change the firing order for the fun of it. I don't think that's the problem, as otherwise the engine would run on 4 cylinders at all times. that means run like **** no matter what he does (including idle)
If I were a betting man I'd say rockers too tight, valves not closing properly.
If you like mess and you have stud mounted rockers, you can adjust as follows:
1. run engine at idle with valve covers off (you can use cardboards to stop oil spilling over to exhaus side.
2. one after another (in any order you can remeber. usually front to back is the best):
- open rocker nut for first valve until you can hear a distinct valve tapping noise.
- SLOWLY clsoe that nut again until the tapping stops.
- SLOWLY close it by another half turn. (do 2x slow 1/4 turns. that's easiest)
- proceed with the next one
if you have a compression tester, check on that first (do compression test for each cylinder with foot on accellerator and ignition disabled)
if the firing order is wrong the compression test will still check out perfectly fine.
the cam card says:
1962-up Ford-Mercury V-8 221-302 cu in (except 1982-up 302 H.O.)
doesn't really help much. you could change the firing order for the fun of it. I don't think that's the problem, as otherwise the engine would run on 4 cylinders at all times. that means run like **** no matter what he does (including idle)
If I were a betting man I'd say rockers too tight, valves not closing properly.
If you like mess and you have stud mounted rockers, you can adjust as follows:
1. run engine at idle with valve covers off (you can use cardboards to stop oil spilling over to exhaus side.
2. one after another (in any order you can remeber. usually front to back is the best):
- open rocker nut for first valve until you can hear a distinct valve tapping noise.
- SLOWLY clsoe that nut again until the tapping stops.
- SLOWLY close it by another half turn. (do 2x slow 1/4 turns. that's easiest)
- proceed with the next one
if you have a compression tester, check on that first (do compression test for each cylinder with foot on accellerator and ignition disabled)
#18
Ok I will run a compression test on it either today or tomorrow and post the results
I had the vac gauged hooked to it and at 600 rpm @ idle I have it set at 8-10* btdc, and the vac gauge holds steady at higher rpm then bounches around at idle between 10-15, which per the chart means i have a burnt valve or a compression leak. Here are what my rocker arms look like:
I had the vac gauged hooked to it and at 600 rpm @ idle I have it set at 8-10* btdc, and the vac gauge holds steady at higher rpm then bounches around at idle between 10-15, which per the chart means i have a burnt valve or a compression leak. Here are what my rocker arms look like:
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