Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

1969 302 Help

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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 08:33 PM
  #11  
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I got a compression tester and vac. gauge today so i will do it this week sometimes, its cold her and late when i get home so it will probably be this weekend!
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #12  
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You may also want to check that the firing order is correct for the cam you have installed and the plugs are indeed wired to the right order. There are two kinds of carb popping - a single instance when the throttle is opened that eventually goes away or multiple pops that usually indicate the valve is open in a cyl when it shouldn't be.
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #13  
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You sure the new cam is 302 and not 302HO/351 firing order?
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #14  
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Mine is multiple pops, i doubled checked the wiring and it is right I will find the invoice for the cam and make sure it is for the older model 302
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #15  
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Here is a link to the cam it shows 1968-1984 for the 302,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K3601/
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:33 AM
  #16  
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I don't think that cam has the H.O. / 351 firing order.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #17  
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what does the compression test say?
if the firing order is wrong the compression test will still check out perfectly fine.

the cam card says:
1962-up Ford-Mercury V-8 221-302 cu in (except 1982-up 302 H.O.)

doesn't really help much. you could change the firing order for the fun of it. I don't think that's the problem, as otherwise the engine would run on 4 cylinders at all times. that means run like **** no matter what he does (including idle)

If I were a betting man I'd say rockers too tight, valves not closing properly.

If you like mess and you have stud mounted rockers, you can adjust as follows:

1. run engine at idle with valve covers off (you can use cardboards to stop oil spilling over to exhaus side.

2. one after another (in any order you can remeber. usually front to back is the best):
- open rocker nut for first valve until you can hear a distinct valve tapping noise.
- SLOWLY clsoe that nut again until the tapping stops.
- SLOWLY close it by another half turn. (do 2x slow 1/4 turns. that's easiest)
- proceed with the next one

if you have a compression tester, check on that first (do compression test for each cylinder with foot on accellerator and ignition disabled)
Old Nov 24, 2011 | 07:33 AM
  #18  
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Ok I will run a compression test on it either today or tomorrow and post the results
I had the vac gauged hooked to it and at 600 rpm @ idle I have it set at 8-10* btdc, and the vac gauge holds steady at higher rpm then bounches around at idle between 10-15, which per the chart means i have a burnt valve or a compression leak. Here are what my rocker arms look like:
Attached Thumbnails 1969 302 Help-sam_0844.jpg   1969 302 Help-sam_0843.jpg  
Old Nov 24, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #19  
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Well here is the compression tests

1-127
2-128
3-138
4-130
5-130
6-130
7-125
8-25

the plug on 8 was also oil coated.. what do you think this means? head gasket or bad cylinder?
Old Nov 25, 2011 | 04:44 PM
  #20  
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Ok here are some pics of the motor torn down of valves and piston.. the single pics are #8 while the ones with 2 are #7 & #8 let me know your thoughts
Attached Thumbnails 1969 302 Help-sam_0853.jpg   1969 302 Help-sam_0858.jpg   1969 302 Help-sam_0857.jpg   1969 302 Help-sam_0854.jpg  
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