My 65 has a roller 302 with aluminum heads. I finally got the cooling system to work great in warm and hot weather, but now I think it may be running too cold in cold weather.

It has a Fluidyne aluminum direct fit 5.0 conversion radiator with the composite fan shroud and a 17 inch Derale reverse rotation fan. The water pump is a stock one. The thermostat is a 180 degree. I still want to put the 190 in, but I don't think that's the problem. The thermometer I have in the T state housing said it was running at about 170-175.

It seems to be really cold blooded even after driving for several miles. How cool is not warm enough?

 

I have a huge "Be Cool" radiator in mine. My fans turn on at 180 and shut off at 150. At idle in Hawaii (its 70-80 here in the winter) my car will dip down to 150 when the fans are on. Going greater than 30 mph the temp goes down to 150.

I think that your radiator is working as normal and it's a huge up grade compared to the original tiny radiator that came with the car.

James

 

I think engines like to be at about 195*. You might try what truckers do and cover part of the radiator in colder weather...

 

I say go ahead and put the 190 t-stat in there, what the hell right?

 

a 195 would be a bit better that should help boost temps a bit

 

yup, go with the 190 stat. it will make all the diff.

 

I never get above 160 in my coupe in this cold weather, I have a 195 thermostat and a big block aluminum radiator. I don't even turn my electric fan on.

 

It can be amazing how well a more than adequate cooling system can perform in the winter.

We have replaced 185 degree thermostats in my old Lincoln and my son's Falcon thinking that must be stuck open, they weren't, the cars just run way cool, 160 and below for these cars.

A few weeks back (before it got cold) we were trying to set up a fuel injection setup on the Falcon, and we could not get the engine to the 172 needed to tune without all but totally blocking off the air flow from the radiator.

Mitch was a little pissed because it wouldn't run warm enough for his heater to really work...

 

why is it that block temps dont at least match that of the tstat in cold weather? (example 195tstat and 160f block temps)

Is it because of a delay at the tstat? Tstat opens and 32f water rushes in and by the time the tstat closes engine temps are way below normal?

Wouldn't a 195 tstat just barely crack open at 195 and then close almost directly as 32f water ran past it????

 

In theory, yes, it hasn't been working for us that way though. I can't really figure it to tell you the truth.