New to the old school scene. build help?
#1
New to the old school scene. build help?
Hey hows it going guys. Havent been on this site for a long time. Use to have a 90 lx with a 347 stroker. long story short its no longer around. I picked up this 1968 Mustang try and do something different. I have never worked with carbed cars and want to know some fact and opinions on the build i want to do. If i posted in the wrong area I apologize it has been awhile.
this is what the car has right now.
351w
hooker long tubes
ededbrock intake and carb
erson 1.6 rockers
9 inch rear with locker
and a c6 tranny
got car dynoed to get a baseline. it made 186rwhp and 255tq (i guess its ok?) peak power between 2300-3500 then starts to drop. max rpm 4700
my goal is a 600+ hp motor
408 stroker with a T trim or ysi trim backed by a t56
questions are will a special carb be needed? what fuel systems will you recommend? Like i said im completely new to this. Car has leaf springs can those still be used for drag? if not what can I use? I have owned nothing but fox bodies my whole life so excuse me if the questions are noobish lol. also suspension whats good and what isnt?
here is a pick of the new project
thx for any input guys.
this is what the car has right now.
351w
hooker long tubes
ededbrock intake and carb
erson 1.6 rockers
9 inch rear with locker
and a c6 tranny
got car dynoed to get a baseline. it made 186rwhp and 255tq (i guess its ok?) peak power between 2300-3500 then starts to drop. max rpm 4700
my goal is a 600+ hp motor
408 stroker with a T trim or ysi trim backed by a t56
questions are will a special carb be needed? what fuel systems will you recommend? Like i said im completely new to this. Car has leaf springs can those still be used for drag? if not what can I use? I have owned nothing but fox bodies my whole life so excuse me if the questions are noobish lol. also suspension whats good and what isnt?
here is a pick of the new project
thx for any input guys.
#2
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Posts: n/a
Looks clean, might want dual quads. Although one big quad should work fine. If you go for the single quad I would do 6~700 cfm.
As for suspension I would stay away from the gas adjustable ones, seems a lot of guys around here don't care for them.by quad I mean 4 barrel Carb. Some guys run multiple carburetors if they plan in spinning the engine to 8 grand.
As for suspension I would stay away from the gas adjustable ones, seems a lot of guys around here don't care for them.by quad I mean 4 barrel Carb. Some guys run multiple carburetors if they plan in spinning the engine to 8 grand.
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
single 4 barrel carburetor should work nicely. Sorry about the state of my first post, i was on my phone.....
i would definitely not go below 600 cfm, not sure if 600 is too little considering you want to spin it at 6500. might want to wait till a couple more guys give their opinion, in the mean time you can drool over these beauties:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../thunder.shtml
i would definitely not go below 600 cfm, not sure if 600 is too little considering you want to spin it at 6500. might want to wait till a couple more guys give their opinion, in the mean time you can drool over these beauties:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../thunder.shtml
#5
Thanks for the link! i got a lot to learn about these carbs. it has a edelbrock carb now but no idea what size. i doubt it will be enough for a supercharged 408 stroker. Does anyone still use leaf springs for drag racing? lol. These are the heads i decided on getting. pricy but worth it imo.. http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail....1&autoview=sku
#7
I think 600 HP is going to want at least a 750 cfm carb, without actually researching, I imagine a bit more than that.
If you get some super stiff springs like the Grab-A-Track 5s, the leafs will do ok, but if you are talking some serious racing, you will want something better.
I have a 408W in my 39, all forged, H-beans, Vic Jr Heads, mild cam (E303) and an Edelbrock ProFlo2 fuel injection, it ain't 600 horses, probably more like 425, but it will spin the **** out of my 15" wide M/T drag radials and do do-nuts at will..
My son has a similar 408 in his 65, bigger cam (a lot bigger) and carbed though. I imagine he was pulling 500 HP = or + a little before he de-tuned by moving to a smaller carb.
HP is easy for these motors with good heads. For a 600 HP Windsor, I highly recommend Edelbrock Vic Jr. Heads, I run em and I like em.
A few weeks ago my son put a FAST "Retro" fuel injection computer and harness on "stock" 80's-90's 5.0 ford fuel injection hardware. I will have to admit to being impressed. For the money it is an effective, easy, and relatively cheap route to fuel injection. It runs really well, and makes more power than the carb it replaced.
If you get some super stiff springs like the Grab-A-Track 5s, the leafs will do ok, but if you are talking some serious racing, you will want something better.
I have a 408W in my 39, all forged, H-beans, Vic Jr Heads, mild cam (E303) and an Edelbrock ProFlo2 fuel injection, it ain't 600 horses, probably more like 425, but it will spin the **** out of my 15" wide M/T drag radials and do do-nuts at will..
My son has a similar 408 in his 65, bigger cam (a lot bigger) and carbed though. I imagine he was pulling 500 HP = or + a little before he de-tuned by moving to a smaller carb.
HP is easy for these motors with good heads. For a 600 HP Windsor, I highly recommend Edelbrock Vic Jr. Heads, I run em and I like em.
A few weeks ago my son put a FAST "Retro" fuel injection computer and harness on "stock" 80's-90's 5.0 ford fuel injection hardware. I will have to admit to being impressed. For the money it is an effective, easy, and relatively cheap route to fuel injection. It runs really well, and makes more power than the carb it replaced.
Last edited by JMD; 12-06-2011 at 11:30 PM.
#8
I would pass on the c6 for a c4 they can be beefed up just as good or you got the money lentech makes a nice aod thats rated to like 800hp.And that much power sub frame connectors are a must and think about a 6 point cage also.
#9
The car looks clean in the pic and your in CA so hopefully rust is minimal but with the classics and the power you are talking you should give the underside a very close look. With the power levels you are talking about you need to make sure you have a solid base to start with.
Once you know the underside is solid i would look at subframe connectors, export brace and other ways to stiffen the body. In the 600+ range you are going to be losing rear wheel power to body twist. The 400 range i wouldnt worry about it but 600+ it can start to happen.
Rear leafs are ok for strip but take the slapper traction bars off and look at some of the other set ups that are available. There are some that bolt to the body and some that are welded. Both set ups will do good for you and alot better than the slappers that are on it now. Also stay away from the air adjustable shocks. They take the weight of the car off the springs and put it on the shocks. The transition pan (where the top of the shocks bolt) isnt strong enough to take the weight of the body and will crack.
Front suspension. My opinion is that fresh rubber on everything(not poly) and shelby drop(easy mod) and roller perches will give some great steet handling with out breaking the bank. There are coil over setups and the mustang II suspension kits available but they arent cheap and in my opinion are more for a road race car rather than the strip car you are talking about.
As far as working on a carb it is pretty simple to do and once you get some experience with them you will love them. Go ahead and buy a vacuum gauge, timing light and a tach now(need to be able to see it from the eng bay), these will be your primary tools for tuning at home. Any problems you need help with then post them up and somebody will be able to help. 600+ i would be thinking 750cfm to start with.
Once you know the underside is solid i would look at subframe connectors, export brace and other ways to stiffen the body. In the 600+ range you are going to be losing rear wheel power to body twist. The 400 range i wouldnt worry about it but 600+ it can start to happen.
Rear leafs are ok for strip but take the slapper traction bars off and look at some of the other set ups that are available. There are some that bolt to the body and some that are welded. Both set ups will do good for you and alot better than the slappers that are on it now. Also stay away from the air adjustable shocks. They take the weight of the car off the springs and put it on the shocks. The transition pan (where the top of the shocks bolt) isnt strong enough to take the weight of the body and will crack.
Front suspension. My opinion is that fresh rubber on everything(not poly) and shelby drop(easy mod) and roller perches will give some great steet handling with out breaking the bank. There are coil over setups and the mustang II suspension kits available but they arent cheap and in my opinion are more for a road race car rather than the strip car you are talking about.
As far as working on a carb it is pretty simple to do and once you get some experience with them you will love them. Go ahead and buy a vacuum gauge, timing light and a tach now(need to be able to see it from the eng bay), these will be your primary tools for tuning at home. Any problems you need help with then post them up and somebody will be able to help. 600+ i would be thinking 750cfm to start with.
#10
+1 on the C-4, smaller, lighter, easier, and they can be made very strong....