You should have someone turn the car over while you feel the top of the relay. You will definitely feel the relay vibrating if that is the source of the sound. Your relay will chatter when it does not get the proper voltage or if it is not properly grounded ... the chatter is just the electromagnetic switch opening and closing real fast.

If that is not the source of the sound then unfortunately you probably have problems down under with the starter or flywheel and hopefully that is just the starter since that would be an easy fix.

 

Put a volt meter on the pos side of the battery and have someone crank it. What is the voltage? Don't guess, this stuff is easy to diagnose.

 

easier way is to check the inspection plate on the bellhousing, gives you a better view and no need to wrestle with the starter.

 

Sorry guys I meant to post back on here yesterday. I did take that plate of and not a single one of the teeth from the flywheel was missing. I haven't been able to try to jump the car off as it is parked head on in the garage and my driveway is too steep to push the car back in without it's own power. I checked the grounds to the relay and they all looked fine and I used a wire brush to clean off anything just to be sure. I don't see how it could be the starter or relay since both were replaced last friday. But first thing in the morning I will be going to buy a battery and hopefully can get it to fire again.

 

I would get a volt meter before you buy a battery, unless you KNOW the battery is bad. Check the voltages like the others have mentioned. Just my 2 pennies!

 

I use my dad's volt meter. The battery checked 12 as early as last week, went to check it last night and it was 8.5 I think. Today read 7.9 volts. I really need to have it thoroughly checked through all wiring to clear it up. Know the shop I am going to take it to already was just hoping to get it started so I could drive it there instead of towing it.

 

Take the battery in to you parts store and have them load test it. I bet it fails. If it does then buy a new battery and it should help your trouble shooting, if not fix the issue.

You replied to my post earlier and my problem was a bad battery as well. I used my truck to jump my 67 and it fired right up.

Just hate spending blind money.

 

Alright I will be sure to take it up to Auto zone first thing in the morning. I had never heard of a load test? Every battery I had taken to them I just had them charge them.

 

Load testing is the process of putting demand on a system or device and measuring its response. Load testing is performed to determine a system’s behavior under both normal and anticipated peak load conditions. It helps to identify the maximum operating capacity of an application as well as any bottlenecks and determine which element is causing degradation. When the load placed on the system is raised beyond normal usage patterns, in order to test the system's response at unusually high or peak loads, it is known as stress testing. The load is usually so great that error conditions are the expected result, although no clear boundary exists when an activity ceases to be a load test and becomes a stress test.

 

I can't say it enough, check ALL of the big cable connections for corrosion and looseness.

Lots of people skip this step because their cables "look just fine" but that doesn't mean ****. The cables sold today are often made with cheap impure copper, have poorly terminated ends, and are often more insulation than wire.

Do yourself a favor, give each end of each wire a "pull test" at the least, (pull while working the cable in a circular motion) to see if the ends are tight.

Very often a bad cable will cause a person to change a battery, then a solenoid, then a starter, then an alternator, and then if they haven't given up, they will get around to replacing the cables, and are then amazed that the cable that looked "new" was their problem all along....