User 6821

I'm working on a 1969 mustang. The floor pans are rusted through in a couple spots and there is enough surface rust to make me want to wire brush the entire pan to bare metal. I've read many forms about what to use as a rust barrier, there are so many products. por-15, primer sealer, zink chromate primer, rust bullet, Eastwood rust encapsulator, epoxy sealer....the list goes on. My question is after i'm done fixing the existing rust holes and done wire brushing down to bare metal what is the the best rust prevention method? Thanks

oxfordbp

Clean off as much rust as you can, then apply the POR-15 products. It seems to be the best out there.

rmodel65

well rust is an inorganic chemical reaction...to stop the reaction you stop the reaction. you clean the rust away use an acid to clean and etch then top coat in a nutshell....most of the time when your floor pans are rusted out the cowl in front of the windshield is rusted out

stephen.osborne1

Used Rust-mort to "pull" any rust outta my metal that sandblasting/sanding could not get without thinning the metal. Then used por15 on areas not being painted like the wheel wells. Then I used under coating to help deaden noise.

jojobanks

I sprayed my floorpans with that flex-seal stuff. Seems to be pretty good.

NoReins

On my next build I won't be using any Por 15, Chassis saver, etc. Instead I will be blasting or grinding any rust off and using SPI epoxy primer everywhere I can reach, including brushing it on to the hard to reach areas as well as areas where the rust is hard to remove. I've not had good results using any of those rust stoppers and I regret using them on my first build. Just my experience and opinion, of course.

zmetalmilitia

If you remove all the rust, there is no need to use POR15 or any rust encapsulator. These are intended for use over rust, hence the name POR15-Paint Over Rust. This chemically stops the rust from advancing. If you cut out the rust and start with fresh metal, most epoxy primers will do the job and are excellent for rust proofing. Of course if you live in and drive in salt, your asking for trouble no matter what you do.

If you primer or paint over rust, it will look good initially, but I'm sure you've read, it will surface its' ugly head soon enough and you'll be back to square one. Do it right the first time. Remove as much rust as possible, through grinding, cutting and welding in new metal, then protecting.

andrewmp6

On the underside normal undercoating will work fine,On the inside you could do a spray on sound deadener like http://www.lizardskin.com/

LynnBob Mustang

I thought you were having good results with the Chassis Saver??? I'm using Chassis Saver on our '65. A lot of local people around where we live swear by it, NOT swear at it.

They use it on the large snow removal equipment and construction equipment with good results and they looked worse from the start then our car ever did and they get several years out of it with the harsh conditions those trucks and equipment see. They also put it on equipment that hardly ever see harsh conditions and they say it is still as good as new when put on years ago.

What happened to your car???
Lynn

NoReins

You are right, I should have been more specific. For a rust-covering paint, we found that Chassis Saver was the best. However, we used it on the back of a set of fenders with a mild amount of rust. Months later, you could scrape it right off.

We have discovered that it is well worth the extra effort to strip and apply SPI epoxy only. The difference in durability and adhesion is huge. We ended up stripping those fenders and applying SPI epoxy.