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Cowl Paint question

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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Default Cowl Paint question

OK...So the bodywork is just about wrapped up on my 65 fastback. To sum it up, my "great find" of a car needed, new quarters (both unexpectedly), trunk drop, doors (both full), both fenders, hood, and trunk, sub frame connectors, and torque boxes. SO...most of the body work for pre paint has been accomplished at this point and prior to all of this I checked my cowl for leaks. There were none. Regardless, I can't stop thinking about the cowl. Am I good or am I gonna hate myself later down the road for not drilling the 300 spot welds and hitting that with some epoxy primer? Would fishing a nozzle up there with some epoxy primer go the trick? I wanna think not. What are your thoughts?

BTW, I'll get some progress pics up sooner or later.
Old Aug 7, 2012 | 05:37 PM
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You have spent a lot of time & money to get as far as you have. If you stop short and do not refinish the Cowl, you will regret it in the future.
Just imagine how much work and money it will cost to do it later after you have spent so much on painting the whole car.
If you are anything like me, it will haunt you if you take short cuts now.

Good luck,
Old Aug 7, 2012 | 05:45 PM
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that is what I was afraid to hear. Maybe I just needed to hear it from a fellow Mustang guy. OK...Well...a little epoxy primer in there should do the trick? I hear of guys Por15'ing the inside of there but it seems like overkill. Any thoughts?

Also, it looks like your have had a bad run of luck with stangs and rebuilds based on your Sig....in both instances....THAT SUCKS....
Old Aug 7, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Mine did not leak either, and I inspected it from the bottom while the floor was out and decided to just clean and paint the inside of the cowl.

It was a bit of a trick but I took a long wooden dowel rod and slotted the end and made a flap wheel with some Emory cloth, then I stuck it in the access holes (fenders were off) and spun it for a whole knocking off any obvious loose paint or rust.
Then I rinsed with a pre paint cleaner and let it sit overnight.

Then I stuck some cardboard in the top vent and dumped a bunch of epoxy in the cowel and used another wooden dowel rod with a foam brush on the end to spread the epoxy around, those access holes in th end really provide more access than you think, but if you need more you can can opener the ends and weld them back shut when done.
I used enough epoxy that it reached all the way to the hats and turned out fine, and since I used foam I have no brush marks.

When it was time for paint I just scuffed the visible areas with the flap wheel for good adhesion.
Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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Epoxy primer is not intended to be the finished surface. You need either some kind of auto grade paint or underbody product that is intended to be the topcoat.
There are porosity issues with most primers, even epoxy.
Old Aug 7, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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What if its starts leaking next month, or the month after, you've already done so much work on it,.......
Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:55 AM
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All you need is SPI epoxy. Black epoxy from Southern Polyurethanes is my product of choice, it is even UV resistant. Here it is on my 71 Challenger Gull Wing that bakes in the sun and drives in the rain..

Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Mustanger
Epoxy primer is not intended to be the finished surface. You need either some kind of auto grade paint or underbody product that is intended to be the topcoat.
There are porosity issues with most primers, even epoxy.
That is untrue. You may not have any experience with epoxy, but it it not porous. Besides, paint is not nearly as hard or as durable.
Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Coupe
That is untrue. You may not have any experience with epoxy, but it it not porous. Besides, paint is not nearly as hard or as durable.
Here is one quick example:

https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...ml#post7681366

Dan
Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:40 AM
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If I'm allowed, I agree with both of you -that's why I specifed Southern Polyurethanes. I can give more examples but I don't want to continue the hi-jack. All I can say is...SPI epoxy...nothing else.



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