Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
STLMustangGuy's Avatar
STLMustangGuy
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From: Missouri
Default Hello to all

New to the forum but have been lurking for a while till I bought my Mustang. Bought an early 65 ( built June 8,1964). The original 170 was replaced with a 200. Car has factory air and automatic. Codes show it has a 65 block and 67 head. Got the car last weekend and started going over it. It sat for a while and ran rough, so I started checking the fuel, and specs. I drained the fuel in the tank since it looked dark like apple juice and smelled sour. Changed the fuel filter, set the dwell, timing to 12 BTC. Idles and reves up smoothly, but falls flat when you accelerate fast while driving.

The distributor is a D10F 12127 and has a duel diaphram. The carb is a Holley 1bbl. Top numbers on the side of the fuel bowl are 4694 2. The numbers below that are 2325. I noticed that the ported line from the carburator was connected to the front port on the advance. I checked and found that this is for full manifold vacuum. Th advance port is the rear chamber. I changed the line and it seemed to help some. The front retard chamber is not connected. All vacuum ports that are not being used are plugged.

I also noticed that the carburator does not have a spark control valve. Looking closer, there are no threads to install one. I noticed that the timing marks do not advance immediately on acceleration. They hesitate then move.

I have not checked the float level since I have no tag and can't find specs on th numbers I have. It seems to be an advance problem.

My question is do I have a distributor and carburator that are compatible?

Would I be better off finding a rebuilt original carb and distributor? I like the Holly carb, but lacking a spark control valve, I would need to find a Ford 1100?

The plugs, wires and cap are also new. Coil is not.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 06:28 AM
  #2  
Firstgothenshow's Avatar
Firstgothenshow
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 29
From: PA
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Congrats on joining the club! If the centrifical advance / timing change is not following throttle advancement from idel on up in RPM, I may suggest two posible solutions:
  1. The weights are stuck due to dirt, grime, sand on the pivot points of the weights
  2. slight chance someone changed the springs in an attempt to have the centrifical advance come in later
  3. lastly, if you have not done so, gently suck on the distributor's vacuum hose to ensure that the diaphram doesn't have a hole or leak. Check that the vacuum advance linkage moves and if so, put your tongue over the the end of the hose and hold it while making sure the arm doesn't retract, if it does, then you have a bad advance unit which again has a domino affect on; idel, gas milage, advancement of timing of idel, etc.
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 06:33 AM
  #3  
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kenash
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Originally Posted by STLMustangGuy
New to the forum but have been lurking for a while till I bought my Mustang. Bought an early 65 ( built June 8,1964). The original 170 was replaced with a 200. Car has factory air and automatic. Codes show it has a 65 block and 67 head. Got the car last weekend and started going over it. It sat for a while and ran rough, so I started checking the fuel, and specs. I drained the fuel in the tank since it looked dark like apple juice and smelled sour. Changed the fuel filter, set the dwell, timing to 12 BTC. Idles and reves up smoothly, but falls flat when you accelerate fast while driving.

The distributor is a D10F 12127 and has a duel diaphram. The carb is a Holley 1bbl. Top numbers on the side of the fuel bowl are 4694 2. The numbers below that are 2325. I noticed that the ported line from the carburator was connected to the front port on the advance. I checked and found that this is for full manifold vacuum. Th advance port is the rear chamber. I changed the line and it seemed to help some. The front retard chamber is not connected. All vacuum ports that are not being used are plugged.

I also noticed that the carburator does not have a spark control valve. Looking closer, there are no threads to install one. I noticed that the timing marks do not advance immediately on acceleration. They hesitate then move.

I have not checked the float level since I have no tag and can't find specs on th numbers I have. It seems to be an advance problem.

My question is do I have a distributor and carburator that are compatible?

Would I be better off finding a rebuilt original carb and distributor? I like the Holly carb, but lacking a spark control valve, I would need to find a Ford 1100?

The plugs, wires and cap are also new. Coil is not.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hi,
Congrats on your new purchase. I can't offer any advice on the carb, except to first check the float level, after which, failing to help, disassemble and clean the carb. Also, attach a timing light check the advance integrity. Check the dist. vac canister does not leak. Also, consider attaching an engine vac gauge to that "full time" vac port and get a read of the engine's over-all health. Keep us posted.
Good Luck!
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #4  
STLMustangGuy's Avatar
STLMustangGuy
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 9
From: Missouri
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Decided to pull the distributor apart and check the advance weights. Got down to he weights and found a screw that holds the points down there. Guess someone dropped one and just replaced it. It was gound up pretty good. Cleaned everything up, set the dwell. Range is 35-40 degrees. Hit it at 39 degrees. Checked the timing. Was set at 12. Changed it to 14. Still a miss at idle once in a while, but overall, idles pretty smooth. Still has a miss under load, but is better. Will probably rebuild carb next. Thinking about getting rid of the old distributor and going with Dura Spark set up. Would have liked to put the Pertronics in, but can't trust this distributor. I'm half way there since the carb does not have a spark control valve.

Any suggestions on places to get the Dura Spark set up?

Also, have not taken a vacuum reading yet. Found my gauge smashed beyond repair.
Old Sep 17, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #5  
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fastbackford351
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Good call with the Duraspark. I converted the fastback almost 20 years ago and haven't given it another thought since.

Make sure you avoid the first generation Duraspark and get the Duraspark II setup. I got my control boxes from the bone yards and bought a rebuilt distributor. Ebay, Craigslist etc. would be a good place to start.


Here's a link I just stumbled across:

http://www.classicinlines.com/DSIIswap.asp
Old Sep 18, 2012 | 08:20 AM
  #6  
STLMustangGuy's Avatar
STLMustangGuy
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 9
From: Missouri
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Thanks for the info Fastback. I like the reliability of the Duraspark, but am a little intimidated by the wiring. Will just have to study it more. Where did ou install the module?
Old Sep 18, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #7  
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fastbackford351
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I mounted the module down low on the drivers side fender wall between the washer bag and the radiator support. Don't let the wiring freak you out, it is pretty straight forward if you can follow a basic schematic.




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