Seems to have spun the #3 rod bearing based on the loud knocking noise, smashed spark plug and that it won't hand turn beyond a certain point (where the piston meets the head?).
The default reaction is to rebuild what you got, right?
Not sure I can get replacement parts such as a narrowed 300 cid rod and bearings, crank and cut down 400M piston, assuming they are ruined. The company went out of biz years ago. I also don't see any stroked clevor rotating assemblies on the market, a 408 would be nice.
Any suggestions?

 

A FoMoCo 392 crate would be oh so sweet




...disregard. I just took a gander at the 2012 Ford Racing catalog and they no longer offer the 392. They stroked the hell out of a 302 to 363 for a cool 8600.00 for a long block and 5k for the short block.

gack.

 

If the block isn't damaged beyond use, trash the rotating assembly and buy a 408 rotating assembly. All off the shelf parts now....

 

All the 408 kits I've seen recently are either W or C, not Clevor (C heads on a W block).
Or am I missing something?
Got a source for a 408 Clevor rotating assy?

 

Yeah, that kind of moolah ain't gonna happen for this.

 

The only difference between the clevor and windsor would be the valve reliefs. any good automotvie machine shop can do it. Hell if i was close I would do it for you.

 

Guam is a bit far, but thanks for the offer.

 

Home was Phoenix before the navy sent me here....

 

Hi,
I like to think you have this block apart by now to determine the cause and next steps...
Good Luck

 

Thanks,
Probably not until January. But here some options I've thought about.

Option 1 (same as before, but maybe not stroked)
• Get it running asap by rebuilding the current Clevor engine
• Assumes the block, heads/valves and cam/lifters/chain etc. are not damaged
• Might not be able to use the 377 rotating assy (assume #3 is non-repairable)
o Would need new rotating assy (358?)
o May need smaller carb if not stroked? Re jet only?
o May need to bore out to .040”?
• Restore engine compartment while engine is out
o Fix heater fan/controls
• Decent resale value, will still need paint and body for the most part, may come out ahead
• Cost = I&R, ? parts + ? labor. Mike to provide quotes.

Option 1a (same as before, but stroked even more)
• Get it running asap by rebuilding the current Clevor engine
• Assumes the block, heads/valves and cam/lifters/chain etc. are not damaged
• Might not be able to use the existing 377 rotating assy (assume #3 is non-repairable)
o Would need new rotating assy (408?)
o May need to re jet the carb?
o May need to bore out to .040”?
• Restore engine compartment while engine is out
o Fix heater fan/controls
• Decent resale value, will still need paint and body for the most part, may come out ahead
• Cost = I&R, ? parts + $ labor. Mike to provide quotes.

Option 2 (basic Sunday driver of the past, not as fast…but more reliable)
• Get it running asap as a good ’20 footer’ (average retail per NADA)
• Swap in van engine/trans, 1986 351w HO/C6 without emissions junk (intake manifold?)
o Comparable power to original engine, lighter/stronger trans
o Make it more like it was stock, but w/electronic ignition
o Inspect for leaks and replace gaskets and pumps as required or prudent
• Restore engine compartment while engine is out
o relocate battery up front, need battery tray and metal work
o Fix heater fan/controls
• Use stock exhaust manifolds if headers won’t fit the R&P steering
• Part out van and misc engine/clevor parts, MSD ignition and Fluid damper, etc
• Decent resale value, will still need paint and body for the most part, may come out ahead
• Cost = I&R, +$800 in parts + $800 in labor? minus sale of van and parts