1966, restorationorum person....probably why it took me ten minutes to figure out where to start a new thread. ANYWAY so i bought a 66 hard to coupe about 6 months ago with the intention of restoring it for my daughter for her first car. Sounds like a great idea considering i have 15 years to do it ( she is 8 months old) gives me time to procrastinate and not run out of money.
Basically i bought the car for 900. It ran but still needed a flat bad to get it home. It loves to die when you take your foot off the gas and over heat like a bad beast. (any ideas on that)
Its going to need all 4 quarts repaid or replaced, hood repaid or replaced, doors the same way. It does have all numbers matching on everything and original pony interior. It pretty much needs attention everywhere.
If you know Indiana you know it snows here and the genius i bought it from had it under blue tarp that was way too small and parked between two oak trees for about 4 years....you can just imagine how much tree moss was all over the body growing...
Back on subject. If i have to work on everything where is the best place to start? Cowl, doors, floors quarters? I was thinking do the cowl then the floor and trunk rear quarters after doors then go where ever after that.... I just don't want to start something and go to work on something else and have to mess with what i already did.

I'll post pictures of it later today if i remember


Thanks ahead of time.

 

Also what is the right mig welder to use? 110v with .023 wire?

 

Find a place where you can work on the car, inside preferably. If it's a straight body, put it up on stands and pull motor, trans, suspension, and interior. That's enough to keep you busy for 6 mos. As for a Mig, 110 is fine if youre using a reputable brand like lincoln or miller. I'm using an older Miller135 and it hasn't let me down yet. Be sure to use a good dedicated 20amp outlet, it will make a difference. Don't foget the 25/75 argon. I use .030 simply to reduce the heat zone, but youhave to shorten your trigger time. .023 is great but you have to be careful. Smaller wire takes more time to fill the area, increasing trigger time, and heat, leading to warping or burn-through. You'll find you'll get less when using 030.

 

I have the interior taken out. The floors are rough in spots, I'm thinking the front under the dash needs replaced and the rest is salvageable. I was wondering if there is a site that sold rear quarter patches. But i was wondering what's the worst you've seen one of these be before it was restored?

 

Let me say...you get what you pay for when it comes to sheet metal and panels. Spend the money on heavier, thicker panels. Note, the term "may require some massaging" to fit, is an absolute understatement! Every single piece I bought required significant work to fit. Don't get frustrated, just be patient.

 

I would post some pictures of the progress but right now this site isn't letting me so I'll try again later. But so far I've got it mostly stripped down and looking for a good rotisserie to buy something reasonable in price but not a cheap piece of shiz, anyone know a good company got one of those. Can't work on it again until probably next Friday but i hope to get it to bare bones then and on jack stands until my rotisserie comes in and i can drop the suspension and axles.

 

https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...ow-to-fix.html
How in the do i fix this i was thinking get some 18 gauge steel and form it to match then cut the bad Sexton out reweld in my piece i made.... I'm taking suggestions. Thanks in advance

 

They do make the panel. http://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacorn-...-1966/p/M3625/

Is the cowl bad too just looks like it carries up into that area under the fenders? Just looking at some of the pictures of the car looks like quarters are bad, seems like rockers are also bad but could be fine and someone just bondo over the seam at the lower quarter. Roof along the drip rail ect. Is it worth fixing? If you need all these parts exp, i would imagine the rails in the back need short backs at least and trunk floors, and the front rails may be gone.

Not trying to sound like an *** or downer just hope you gave her a good look over and dont end up like some people i see spending alot of money on a car that just isnt worth restoring and after never get back into the hobby.

 

The frame rails are I'm surprisingly good shape it looks bad in the pictures because i only took pictures of the worst spots... The engine runs smooth besides the radiator needing flushed and the carb needs rebuilt and the transmission is strong. All the numbers match on everything and the motor hasn't rolled over. She just has assume roughspots like any old mustang some idiot thought they would restore with bondo fiberglass and caulk haha

 

You can get A LOT of the sheet metal from mustangs unlimited. They also carry original tooling fenders/hoods. They have a hefty truck frieight charge on items like that.. I think 170 but it's flat rate. I have dealt with Matt on numerous occasions. If you want his contact info you can message me