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69 302 Engine Wiring

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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Default 69 302 Engine Wiring

Trying to wire my engine for a quick start up. I think I have everything but the wires going from the switch to the solenoid/relay (the ones dotted below). My relay is not labeled S or I but I assume the S is on the left and I is on the right.

Do I have this correct? I dont plan to run this very long just long enough to break in the engine.

Also, is there a ground on the starter?

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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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Your schematic is incorrect inasmuch you will loose voltage after release of the switch from start to run. You should move your dist + wire directly to the Batt+ terminal of the starter relay. Note that this may shorten the life of your coil if you keep it there too long (hours). You can also remove the switch part of the circuit and just momentarily jump the relay using a remote starter switch between the S term and Batt + to engage the starter.

The starter grounds to the engine which grounds to the batt neg terminal & to the car body.

Last edited by jlg2002; Dec 19, 2012 at 03:07 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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Just to confirm: I need to move the wire from + of coil to battery connection on the relay. Everything else looks ok?

The starter is ground to the engine block by the bolts holding it to the block? I didnt see another connection point.

I am using the switch off my startup stand.
Old Dec 20, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Place the wire from the + side of the dist and wire it directly to the switch ignition terminal you don't need to use the relay I terminal.
the starter grounds directly to the block so make sure you batt neg is wired directly to the block
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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Ok I think I got it. See pic below. Or do I not need the wire from the I terminal on the relay to the IGN on the switch?

Next question how do I handle my c4 trans? Will it start without the neutral safety switch wiring connected?

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Last edited by 69Volunteer; Dec 21, 2012 at 02:51 PM.
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 04:05 PM
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close. the new wire you added to the dist + and the relay is a "hot wire" and will keep the ignition on until removed. It essentially makes the wire between the switch and the coil unnecessary.
So you need to either:
use the wire between the relay and the coil (engine will run until the wire is removed from the relay)
or
use the wire between the coil and switch (the engine will run until the switch is turned off and will remove power from the coil )

but not both of them.

Last edited by jlg2002; Dec 21, 2012 at 04:09 PM.
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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Gush, this is just perfect!

Old Dec 22, 2012 | 11:53 AM
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Ok. I'll keep the switch because I am going to run the switch to the dash.

What about the trans without having the neutral safety switched hooked up?

Thanks for all the help!
Old Dec 29, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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ok, I kept the wire from the switch to the coil (I cant upload a new diagram). When I turn the switch to ON, I get clicking at the relay.

The relay is the same that was used to start the engine before it was pulled and rebuilt 6 months ago so I feel like I have something wired incorrect. I only have 11.2 volts at the battery so I am going to let it charge overnight.

Any other suggestions? If I take the wire from the switch to the solenoid off, and turn to ON, I get the same 11.2v at the coil.

Battery?

Last edited by 69Volunteer; Dec 29, 2012 at 11:53 PM.
Old Dec 30, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Well after trouble shooting the relay, figured out the starter had gone bad. Car turns over but won't start--for another thread.

I gave up on the switch. When I turned the key to ON, I engaged the starter. Switched wires between IGN and SOL and had the same result. Bad switch?

I ended up jumping the bat side of the relay to the starter side to get it to turn over.



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