Car shakes when it goes into gear
I have a 67 coupe w/289 w/289 Edelbrock performance intake and a 8867 Edelbrock 600 CFM carb.
The car Idles great with no issues. When I put it into any gear the car shakes. Its a pretty good shake. Also my oil Pressure at idle is 20psi and it drops to maybe 8-10psi when I put it into gear. As soon as I take off the car gets smooth again with going slow a 40PSI and a 60 PSI on the highway. I will say at about 10-15MPH the car has a slight jump to it almost like a sputter.
Any advise would be great.
The car Idles great with no issues. When I put it into any gear the car shakes. Its a pretty good shake. Also my oil Pressure at idle is 20psi and it drops to maybe 8-10psi when I put it into gear. As soon as I take off the car gets smooth again with going slow a 40PSI and a 60 PSI on the highway. I will say at about 10-15MPH the car has a slight jump to it almost like a sputter.
Any advise would be great.
I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission...
There's a couple things I can think of that would cause these problems. The first is low idle speed. Idle rpm on an auto is supposed to be a little higher to keep the engine from stalling when put into gear.
Option 2 is a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks will cause shaking (misfiring) and driveability issues as low rpm's, but symptoms will go away at higher rpm's. This is my best guess at your actual problem, as it would explain the shaking as well as the low rpm's and misfiring.
Option 3 is a carburetor problem, like the idle mixture being too lean. This would cause a similar problem to a vacuum leak at low rpm's.
Option 4 is a broken motor mount. A bad mount will cause the engine to literally jump under acceleration, although this is more apparent in m/t cars when you let the clutch out.
There's a couple things I can think of that would cause these problems. The first is low idle speed. Idle rpm on an auto is supposed to be a little higher to keep the engine from stalling when put into gear.
Option 2 is a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks will cause shaking (misfiring) and driveability issues as low rpm's, but symptoms will go away at higher rpm's. This is my best guess at your actual problem, as it would explain the shaking as well as the low rpm's and misfiring.
Option 3 is a carburetor problem, like the idle mixture being too lean. This would cause a similar problem to a vacuum leak at low rpm's.
Option 4 is a broken motor mount. A bad mount will cause the engine to literally jump under acceleration, although this is more apparent in m/t cars when you let the clutch out.
It didn't do this before I changed out the carbs just a few days ago. I don't think it is motor mounts but I will check all your other suggestions. I did have it idled low and not sure how to adjust the fuel mixture right. I know how to make the adjustments just don't how to know if they are right. I need a tach should it idle between 600-800 RPMs.
Before you do anything with the carb, check for vacuum leaks. Grab a can of brakleen (or something equally volatile) and start spurting it around the base of the carb, the mating surface between the intake and heads, and around any vacuum connections near the carb. If the rpm's pick up, you've found a vacuum leak. Also, make sure you didn't leave any open vacuum ports when you installed the carb.
Assuming your cam isn't super aggressive, I'd guesstimate idle speed should be at ~650rpm in drive. 600 may work, but if it wants to die at that speed, kick it up a hair.
You need a vacuum gauge to properly set the idle mix, in which case you'd set the mix for highest vacuum.
Lacking that, here's the 'by ear' method:
With the car off, turn each idle screw in (gently) until it seats, then back it off 3 full turns. Fire up the car, then return to the idle mix screws. Pick a screw and turn it clockwise slowly in 1/2 turn increments until you hear the engine rpm's drop, then back off 1/2 a turn. Repeat for the second screw. Go back to the first screw and turn it clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until you hear the rpm's drop, then back it off 1/4 turn. Repeat for the second screw. This should get you pretty close.
Assuming your cam isn't super aggressive, I'd guesstimate idle speed should be at ~650rpm in drive. 600 may work, but if it wants to die at that speed, kick it up a hair.
You need a vacuum gauge to properly set the idle mix, in which case you'd set the mix for highest vacuum.
Lacking that, here's the 'by ear' method:
With the car off, turn each idle screw in (gently) until it seats, then back it off 3 full turns. Fire up the car, then return to the idle mix screws. Pick a screw and turn it clockwise slowly in 1/2 turn increments until you hear the engine rpm's drop, then back off 1/2 a turn. Repeat for the second screw. Go back to the first screw and turn it clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until you hear the rpm's drop, then back it off 1/4 turn. Repeat for the second screw. This should get you pretty close.
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