time to get to work!
3rd Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 508
From: Tyler, TX
RE: time to get to work!
Yeah, I would use a dual action or orbital sander with 120 to 180 grit. That rust will come off relatively easy. Dont sand by hand though, you'll kill yourself.
If you use 80 grit, you'll most likely get scratches that you cant see until you put a nice glossy clearcoat on there. Either that or you have to coat the car with an inch of primer, which is not good. Take your time and do it right.
Im really concerned with the integrity of your car. I really dont see how replacing the framerails and welding them onto rusted sheet metal is good. Remember, framerails rust from the inside out, so youve got a car with a really bad structure. If you have rusted floor pans, and you remove the doors, its quite likely your car will bend in half. Be very very very careful.
And Davin is right, if you hang fenders or quarters on an unstable unibody, you might as well just throw it all away. Im not saying what youre doing cannot be done, but its way more than most of us can tackle. If Im still alive when youre done, I want to see finished pics.
(it will be great to show the folks at a car show what you started with)
If you use 80 grit, you'll most likely get scratches that you cant see until you put a nice glossy clearcoat on there. Either that or you have to coat the car with an inch of primer, which is not good. Take your time and do it right.
Im really concerned with the integrity of your car. I really dont see how replacing the framerails and welding them onto rusted sheet metal is good. Remember, framerails rust from the inside out, so youve got a car with a really bad structure. If you have rusted floor pans, and you remove the doors, its quite likely your car will bend in half. Be very very very careful.
And Davin is right, if you hang fenders or quarters on an unstable unibody, you might as well just throw it all away. Im not saying what youre doing cannot be done, but its way more than most of us can tackle. If Im still alive when youre done, I want to see finished pics.
(it will be great to show the folks at a car show what you started with)
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 215
From: Michigan
RE: time to get to work!
i would post some pics of the frame but it keeps telling me the file is too large....but i plan on replacing the WHOLE frame and floorboard. i should have new everything when im done...but thanks for the caution. i was planning on uhauling it to the shop with an auto transport trailer like i did when i got it but ill be more careful and try and do it sooner.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 215
From: Michigan
RE: time to get to work!
nice job pak .... great progress! my car needs the emergency table though....she's suffering from cancer and the docs tell me she might collapse![sm=devilangel.gif]
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: time to get to work!
ORIGINAL: mustangdemon01
I been trying to save up money to get the frame done first but im tired of waiting! ive been doing research on mig welding and found some info and someone that can help me out. I plan to work on the quarter panels, rocker panels, wheel wells before i get the frame replaced. I can do this before i get the frame done right?
my fenders seem to be in good condition (no rust along the edges) so i was thinking before winter rolls around i can take them off sand them, and prime them..but im not sure of the process...if i do this by hand what grit should i start with? what should i move on to? i read i should start with 80, then move to 120 then to 240-320...is this right? should i appy primer right after? what kind of primer should i be looking for? after i prime it should it be okay until paint?
i was also thinking about doing this to the doors also...my doors seem to be in good condition too except in the far bottom corner there is a small rust hole the size of a golf ball on each door...should i use body filler? how do i apply it? anything else i can do?
sorry for so many questions ....your wisdom is very much appriciated.
I been trying to save up money to get the frame done first but im tired of waiting! ive been doing research on mig welding and found some info and someone that can help me out. I plan to work on the quarter panels, rocker panels, wheel wells before i get the frame replaced. I can do this before i get the frame done right?
my fenders seem to be in good condition (no rust along the edges) so i was thinking before winter rolls around i can take them off sand them, and prime them..but im not sure of the process...if i do this by hand what grit should i start with? what should i move on to? i read i should start with 80, then move to 120 then to 240-320...is this right? should i appy primer right after? what kind of primer should i be looking for? after i prime it should it be okay until paint?
i was also thinking about doing this to the doors also...my doors seem to be in good condition too except in the far bottom corner there is a small rust hole the size of a golf ball on each door...should i use body filler? how do i apply it? anything else i can do?
sorry for so many questions ....your wisdom is very much appriciated.
It helps to stiffen up the car by tying the frames together length wise and then there are side stiffeners that mount to the seat bolts. This provides a great way to make the stock uni-body much more rigid.
All this ties together with how your wheel alignment stands up to time, tire wear etc. Even romping on the happy pedal now and again subjects the frame to torsional forces. Frame stiffeners help to reduce the long term impacts.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 215
From: Michigan
RE: time to get to work!
hey guys....i dont know if i failed to mention this[sm=oopssign.gif].....theres no engine or transmission, or gastank, or even any interior in the car. [sm=chairshot.gif]