The self-adjuster works everytime you press on the pedal IF there is room for adjustment. As the shoe wears, the self-adjuster compensates by "clicking" one tooth at a time to move the adjuster rotation.

 

Can drum shoes not return properly be caused by an overfilled master cylinder? I read somewhere that worn brakes need less oil in the master cylinder? Could it be so simple that the left shoe is over-adjusted and I´m moving too much fluid?

How close do you fill up to the top?

 

I usually top it off to about 1/4" from the top. Not sure what to make of the 'worn brakes need less brake fluid' idea.


What I recently encountered was the original backing plates on the rear of the fastback were worn and actually had made a bit of a groove / lip combo on the bosses where the shoes ride that prevented them from properly returning after I released the brake. I used a dremel to grind the bump down smooth and was back in business.


Just to toss poo onto the disc vs dum..er, I mean drum fire...

Disc brakes are a whole lot easier with fewer moving parts.

 

Incorrect. They only adjust when brakes are applied in reverse. The reverse motion causes the assembly to rotate enough so the adjuster cable pivots on the star wheel. If there is room the wheel moves one click. They should never adjust going forward.

 

hahahahaha

 

Hello again!

Still trying to solve why the front left drum brake is applying more pressure and get hot (car pulling to the left when braking)

I lift the car with a jack before I drove and both front wheels were spinning as they should - with a slightly dragging sound. I did the same test after I drove and then the front left wheel barely spun at all and with a clear dragging sound. The drum was hot compared to the other three. I have tried to reduce the fluid level so it is 0.39 inches from the top in the master cylinder.

This means that the self-adjusting is set correctly. I have new springs, wheel cylinders, brake hoses and it seems like the shoes are returning, but to slow. Could it be air? I have bleed the system many times and it was just clear fluid. Could it be a bad wheel cylinder out of the box? Shoes and drum looks greats and everything is installed by the book. There is no leak from the master cylinder. Could it be the emergency brake? Should I just buy new parts again and see if it does the trick? Could it be the master cylinder (but it was working correctly before I changed parts)

 

Install a proportioning valve to balance your brakes from left to right.

 

Not incorrect. Think about what you are saying. As the brake shoes move outward toward the drum, the cable (which is stationary at one end) moves the adjuster lever against the star wheel. As the shoe lining wears, there is sufficient room for the adjuster lever to advance one click and and adjust.

Applying the brakes in reverse MAY give MORE adjustment by virtue of the secondary brake shoe moving a tad further outward, but self adjusting brakes work in either direction and even when the vehicle is stationary whenever pedal pressure is applied

 

Worn brakes actually require MORE fluid but the fluid level has nothing to do with the shoes (or pads) not returning completely.

 

But, I´m having problem with front left. Proportioning valve is for balancing rear and front?

I quess I´m gonna go along the line going back to distribution block and the master cylinder and just crack open the connections and look for where I do not not have brake fluid spray out under pressure.

I wonder: could a bad distribution block or a bad master cylinder cause just one side drag? Should not both front brakes drag equally?