Replacing Leaf Spring Bushings
#21
OK, I'm a bit confused. The new front eye bushing is encased in a metal housing. I understand that I lube the outside of that housing with anti-seize, as well as the actual spring eye. Am I supposed to remove the rubber bushing from the housing and lube the rubber? If so, do I lube the rubber with anti-seize, or silicone lube?
#22
On the silicone spray....
I don't know actually. Not sure if there would be a chemical reaction with the bushing from something in the spray, or how long it will last.
I like anti-seize because it lasts forever. In a low heat application like bushings it will stay really slippery for a really long time. Even in extreme heat like header bolts, the oil burns off but it still has the aluminum paste left behind.
Put lube on any part of the bushing that touches metal on either the spring or the chassis. Are you saying the bushing itself is metal on the outside?
I don't know actually. Not sure if there would be a chemical reaction with the bushing from something in the spray, or how long it will last.
I like anti-seize because it lasts forever. In a low heat application like bushings it will stay really slippery for a really long time. Even in extreme heat like header bolts, the oil burns off but it still has the aluminum paste left behind.
Put lube on any part of the bushing that touches metal on either the spring or the chassis. Are you saying the bushing itself is metal on the outside?
#24
If the metal housing fits into the spring, then that's probably how the bushing is designed. Most likely to prevent it from getting torn if it tries to rotate inside the spring. I'd lube the metal anyway, if for no other reason than to make it easier to install/remove.
#27
Creativity? And beer.
I usually wait till I'm sufficiently pissed off enough to start wailing on things with a BFH till it comes loose. You could try holding it in place with some cable anchored to the spring on the other side (if that end is still bolted in place).
Is it in there really tight? A lot of the times this older stuff is rusted together, or all bound up with some type of corrosion. If that's the case, you can whack it really fast and crisply with a small hammer. The shock tends to fracture the corrosion up and help break it loose.
I usually wait till I'm sufficiently pissed off enough to start wailing on things with a BFH till it comes loose. You could try holding it in place with some cable anchored to the spring on the other side (if that end is still bolted in place).
Is it in there really tight? A lot of the times this older stuff is rusted together, or all bound up with some type of corrosion. If that's the case, you can whack it really fast and crisply with a small hammer. The shock tends to fracture the corrosion up and help break it loose.
#28
OK. Day one is over. Got all nuts loose except one, who decided to round itself off. Had to go out a buy nut remover kit (some people call it an easy out kit). Something I can always use so I don't feel too bad. Decided to completely remove springs. Will make it easier to get bushings out. If I can 't get them out I might have to take them to a machine shop and have them pressed out. Hope not.
#29
I removed the whole spring so I could use my bench vise to get the front bushing out. No BFH needed.
Use a socket that has almost the same size as the bushing and another that is big enough to fit the bushing inside it on the other side, then use the mechanical advantage of the vises lead screw to get it out. easy day, comes out REAL quick. Install is the opposite of removal.
Use a socket that has almost the same size as the bushing and another that is big enough to fit the bushing inside it on the other side, then use the mechanical advantage of the vises lead screw to get it out. easy day, comes out REAL quick. Install is the opposite of removal.