As most of you know from the other thread on the Rack & Pinion, I'm putting in basically a whole new front end.
Had some time today, and got some of the front end done.
Here are a couple of pictures.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll mount the springs, rotors, calipers and lines. Then I just need to do "poor mans" alignment, and get the wheels ordered up. Due to issues with the new powerbooster, I ordered up an Export brace and will have to remove the stock brackets on the shock tower. So I've got some serious work to do before the I finish the brakes.

I'll do a complete write up when it's finished and drivable. There are a few issues that people purchasing this stuff should know (like the power booster deal).

Anyways, here are the pictures.



[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/E58C1F38F95B49A29B9C6C3ABB019481.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/C956FDA1BEC04E46AAFF4361C37747AE.jpg[/IMG]

 

1. Do you have other pics? Your Stang has caught my attention.
2. Did you machine those yourself? They look like they have adequate girth! Nice.
3. What is this "poor mans allignment"? Different regions have different slang terms.

 

Hi Frankus,

I've posted some other pictures on different threads. Just posted some of the Rack and Pinion install the other day. A few months back I posted some on installing the 5 speed, and air conditioning. And also posted a couple on the center console install.

What I was refering to on a "poor mans alignment" is using available tools to measure camber, caster and toe in. I've got a nice incidence meter I can use to check camber, and by adding a protractor can set up caster as well. Then toe in is set with a tape measure. This will allow me to drive it to the alignment shop if I want. To be honest though, it's only coming out of the garage and on the flat bed, then on the alignment rack. No sense in messing up a new set of tires.

I installed the power booster today, and got it all plumbed up. As this car is a manual transmission, it takes a slightly different kit.

Had to remove the stock shock tower braces, and the brackets that are spot welded to the shock tower, and in it's place I installed an export brace. That along with indenting the shock tower about 1/4" (noticable in the picture from above with the export brace), gave me the clearance I needed.

What would I do different?

Don't get the optional kit lines, just go to Napa and pick up a 4' piece. The kit lines are too short to make a horizontal loop. Also the diameter of all the brake lines is small for the kind of volume they are going to need to flow. I'm not expecting anything better then standard late model braking response because of this. Later I will replumb the whole car with larger lines. The adjustable proportioning valve is from Summit, cheap and good quality.

It's going to be about 6 weeks before I can drive the car. Still have to order up wheels, and finish other things.

I was able to get the springs cut, painted and installed. I bought the $30.00 spring compressor from NPD just to see if it's any good. In order to make it work I picked up a 4" piece of 3/4" black pipe, and used it as a spacer between the upper arm and the washers (I'll try and post a picture tomorrow). This kept the bolt from protruding too far into the spring perch, and also kept the bolt head at the top of the tower. Made it much easier to remove and install the springs this way. The instructions say to use a stack of washers. 4" worth of washers would have been a PITA (IMO).

Hopefully I'll get some time this week to install the brakes.

Anyways, here are some pictures.

[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/31F2EC73A9794C16B22AC00E53DFECCA.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/DB58B5E5AB56419EACC8E2ED7FD03D64.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/9E778B85F1624307A6EB10311A6B49A9.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/48B3A0A34CF44AF5BDCBAC8B6092276A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/9889965805914AEC9EA99B3C2EC8F085.jpg[/IMG]

 

The caliper brackets come from a guy in Texas that goes by Mustang Steve. Allows using 13" Cobra brakes.

 

I lovem! I wish I had my own mill to turn out beauties like those! Im going to do the granada swap on my car, get 5 lug drums for the rear, and replace all the brake lines. Today I was feeling a bit rebelious and decided to try traffic weaving for the first time (nothing too dangerous, ive got descresion!) Ive always been driving my car like its ready to fall apart so I never tried doing anything daring with it. For right now im just doing things to keep it together but my long term goal is to make it a rice killer.

Are you the racing guy? I think I remember you mentioning it in another thread...

 

Scott,
Fill me in on why you need larger than 3/16th brake line. I understand volume, but I also understand pressure. How would a larger brake line improve braking?

 

I have a question about the granada swap. In the Instructions it says that you need to get something on the rotor machined so it will fit a 14" wheel. Does anybody have a better diagram of what needs to machined?

 

What? Is there a backspace issue, or some sort of clearance issue? If I were you, I would go with 15" or more anyway. I have 15's on my 65, and to me it just makes the stance correct. The 14's make it look wimpy. Just my 2c. Now, I need 98 cents in change because I only have a dollar. And, it is probably a fake one printed out on my computer printer.

 

Very good question Soaring,

Just changing the lines does nothing to increase pressure, there will be slightly more volume in the lines, but that is negligable.
Larger lines will allow more fluid to pass with less resistance. So the instant response is quicker, both in applying and releasing the brakes. Also modulating at threshold is easier. It's hard enough with a power booster, I don't want any additional lag in response.
The six brake pistons in the four wheel disc system I'm installing, require a greater volume *movement* than the original four wheel drum. So in order to realize the true potential of the brakes quick response, and get better feel, increasing the line size will help.
I will look to match it with the same size that was used on the '04 Cobra (I think that is 1/4" but I need to double check).

Once I get the car on the road and the brakes bedded in, I'll know what else needs to be done to realize their true potential.

 

AHA! Less resistance I can understand. But if the pressure is the same, then how can more volume increase the amount of time it takes to activate the pads?