You can use both on later classics, sometimes it's better since you can locate the wheel in the well a tad better.

 

You are correct, the 69-70 models didnt use shims. But if everyone I have talked to says that if you need to do it, then go for it. I think it may require using a longer bolt though. I used a step bit to get my holes opened up, very slowly. I wish I wouldnt have given my drop template away when In hawaii, I would have sent it to you. Hopefully the guy I gave it to pays it forward, and it ends up in one of our member hands someday.

I still havent done mine. It seems that I get distracted by other things everytime I start thinking about suspension again. I have the shims though. Best bet would be to find a good shop that will know how to align these cars. You can get the pre alignment done at home in the garage and by feel. I did it twice. just drop the car on the ground after the swap, move it back and forth about twenty feet to get the wheels settled and eyeball it, then take it around the block. You will feel the way it steers, take it slowly and adjust your tie rods until it steers close to what it felt like before, then take it in to the shop. I adjusted my LCA's by just using the center lowest hole on the eccentric eliminator plate on both sides. It was "safe enough" for a slow 10 minute drive to the shop.

 

Oh, and if you dont have it, get a new idler arm for your steering. That part alone, made my car drive so much better. Way less bouncing around on the road every time I hit a bump.

 

I think I will go shimless on the uca and see how close I can get the alignment with just the lower control arm eccentric kit and the adjustable strut rods. I think this will let me get close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

 

To be honest, I have only rebuilt '65 - '68 front ends, so I don't know - but I would do what boogerschnot said and replace the idler arm - I like the roller idlers from ORP - especially if you don't have power steering it makes a big difference.

 

So I have been reading through the archives and lots of people say that getting the caster adjustment correct (while placing wheel properly in wheelwell) after shelby drop and 1" drop springs required them to shim the upper control arm. Not all, but many of these posts are from owners of earlier cars. If 69' models truly didn't come with any uca shims, then I won't have anything to help me predict if I should shim my uca while the car is apart. It sounds like its common to shim later model cars after suspension mods. Essentially I am hoping to avoid the alignment issues that so many people have encountered.
I have read that the strut rods should NOT be used to adjust caster because it puts stress on balljoints. Here is what I'm thinking: 1)Measure stock strut rod length and match this as close as possible with new adjustable units, 2) install suspension components (not shocks though) and control arms with no shims, 3) use lca eccentric to dial in camber and check with car on ground, 4) ballpark 1/8" toe with tie rods, 5)check caster with wax paper and visual wheelwell check, add uca shims if needed to front uca bolt and any necessary length adjustments to strut rod for fine tuning. Does this sound like a decent plan?
I understand that letting the new suspension settle is crucial for a good alignment since the specs can change, but I can't find consensus anywhere on how long it takes new suspension to settle. Mind you, my front end will be all roller so I would imagine that lets the spring find its resting height quicker. How long should I wait for suspension to settle?

 

Here are some photos of the new parts for those curious. Gosh I am excited to start.

 

Here is another writeup that has a little bit more info pertaining to the Arning 1" drop on 1969 models.

http://www.mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Arni...ion%20Drop.pdf

 

Leaf spring removal starts this monday, I've been hitting the existing hardware with penetrating grease and a little shock treatment, hopefully it's not a long battle!

 

Today I moved the car to where I'll be doing the work, and that took up a good bit of time plus getting set up. I only had time to do passengers side leaf spring, but I got the old one out surprisingly easily. Penetrating grease paid off maybe? Also to my surprise the inside of the shackle/front eye bushings wasn't too torn up, but the outer edges were pretty bad. I imagine that's common. I will need to buy new grommets for the leaf spring bolt, shoulda thought of that ahead of time :/ I really hope drivers side comes out as easily as passengers did.