It was a little more difficult than i thought it would be. Mostly due to the limited room to work. I am thinking now that the new box may be bad. It handles a ton better but the wheel is still a little bit stiff. When turning it doesnt return to center very well. I previously had power steering so i just installed the power conversion which included the link, box, and hoses.
I had it aligned at a great local shop here. they did say that with new boxes, it is common for there to be a stiff spot at the center until it breaks in a little. However, it seems to be getting stiffer. before I installed the steering box there was a stiff spot when turning by hand. Should I be concerned and is the above mentioned normal. Or should I be requesting a new box?

thanks
B

 

That's how worm and recirculating ball boxes work. The gear lash is tighter when the box is on center so the steering doesn't wander when you're going down the highway. You'll also have less return to center with power than manual, since the force being applied to the steering has to work against the resistance of the power steering mechanism.

 

so can I loosen the adjustment screw a tiny bit to have it loosen up the steering. It just seems really stiff to me

 

Stiff like binding, or stiff like stiffer than you think? What pump are you running? Is the fluid level correct and the pump making proper pressure, no leaks?

 

Was this a new kit?

If it was, then what did their tech-support say? I'd drop a dime and see if they can give you any insight.

 

Keep us posted I am interested in a similar system

 

I spoke with a rep from Borgenson. They said the same thing that the alignment place said. That the center point will be a little stiffer than off center. however, I still think It is way too stiff. The rep. also said that since I used my factory mustang pump, It may not be putting enough pressure out. So he recommended that I use a same era truck pump. If i had known this then I would have just ordered the kit with the new saginaw pump. It would have been less $.
I didnt for a reason. i have a custom A/C bracket that will not work with the saginaw pump. I did not want to redo it.

I just had it aligned again after two weeks of driving. I noticed a ton of bump steer and tire wear. So i had it adjusted after a little break in.

At this point I am unhappy with it. I think It may just need some adjusting. I am also going to add a bearing at the bottom of the steering column instead of the bushing provided. I hope it helps. I think It will.

Also, there is no backup for the rag joint. Meaning if it tears I loose control. Since the rubber portion of the rag joint is the only connection from the shaft to the steering box, I can pull on the wheel and it will stretch almost 1/2" away from the column. Once I do this, the rag joint does not re alighn and the signals and horn dont work because the contacts no longer touch the pins on the wheel adapter.

So at this point, i think I would recommend a rack & Pinion or even keeping the stock power steering. If you can keep it from leaking.

 

Yes, please!

 

You know, I seriously considered doing a power steering upgrade / steering box swap but decided against it and went with a Flaming River manual rack & pinion setup and have never looked back.

 

It handles great though. the response is fantastic and I think the steering radius is even better. The reduction in steering radius is one of the main reasons I did not do the rack & pinion. I do a ton of driving and didnt want to loose it. I also herd that there is a lot of bump steer with the rack & pinion. I think either way there is going to be a trial and error session when adapting an old car. I just wish I had been able to find more info before i started so I would know what i was getting into.