Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

zbar problems

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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #1  
maddog06's Avatar
maddog06
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From: wisconsin
Default zbar problems

I purchased a 69 mustang coupe that was originally a 6 cylinder 3 sp car. The guy I bought it from got it with a 302 with 69 date code and a c4 trans. When I bought it it also came with a top loader 4sp,zbar,and bell housing. I installed the motor after rebuild and bolted up the bell housing. New pivot points were bough ten from cj pony. When I install the frames side and then the engine side there is about a 3 inch ddifference. The engine side sits back farther about 3 inches then the frame side so the zbar is on a 45 degree angle. Is the problem in the motor mounts or bell housing please help
Old Dec 23, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #2  
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barnett468
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the frame position is the same for both.

the z bar goes to the eng not the bell housing, there is a threaded hole in the block for it.

if it does not line up you likely have a motor mount problem.
Old Dec 24, 2013 | 02:26 AM
  #3  
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67mustang302
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I threw that **** out and went hydraulic a long time ago.

If you plan on keeping the car, you really will thank yourself in the long run for spending the cash up front and going hydraulic.
Old Dec 24, 2013 | 07:11 AM
  #4  
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thanks for the help guys.
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 67mustang302
I threw that **** out and went hydraulic a long time ago.

If you plan on keeping the car, you really will thank yourself in the long run for spending the cash up front and going hydraulic.
F that! I hate the feel of hydraulic. Stick with the z-bar and you'll be happier.
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 02:31 AM
  #6  
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musnicki
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Did you get the Z-bar in correctly?

One main flaw with the Z-bar is that when under hood temperatures get high the metal Z-bar become soft and pliable which decreases it's mechanical advantage (if it ever had one to begin with). You'll notice harder shifting and more grinded gear shifting as the car heats up.

If it's an original car then I would say keep it. If it's your daily driver then I would switch to a cable or hydraulic.

James
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 06:41 AM
  #7  
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Hi,
I can't let this go without commenting....
If your engine compartment temps are so hot they they affect the metallurgy of any metal component, it is affecting all of the cloth, plastic and nylon parts, as well. You should leave the car immediately, as it's on fire! There have been reports of cracking welds, and the arms bending. But this was due incorrect installations, inferior reproductions, and/or increased pressure plate components.
BTW, I run "Z" system with performance clutch system and no issues for 5-6 years.

"One main flaw with the Z-bar is that when under hood temperatures get high the metal Z-bar become soft and pliable which decreases it's mechanical advantage"
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 02:18 PM
  #8  
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Iskwezm
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I have a Z bar linkage with a heavier clutch. I added a couple of gussets just to reduce any chance of flexing on the linkage.
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #9  
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I run this kit. It's H/D and well engineered.
See: www.barillarospeed.net/index.html
Attached Thumbnails zbar problems-65-66-rollerized-z-bar-kit.jpg  
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 03:44 PM
  #10  
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67mustang302
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Could also get a McLeod RST or RXT twin disc, MUCH lower pedal effort than most clutches with way more holding power.



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