1966 V8 convertible, great shape, but want to upgrade for ridability and everyday driving. So I need to do front suspension, disc brakes, power steering to start. Not all too concerned with originality, am willing to spend for what's right but not over do it (i am not racing it....). i am starting with front suspension. I am thinking new UCA (with 1"drop), and LCA, roller spring perches, new springs and shocks, inner and outer tie rods, and 1" sway bar.

But I also have an option to go with a coilover conversion kit (TCP for example). is that extra expense worth it? i understand it has benefits to accurately align the front end for one? Also, will i need to do the 1" drop mod for this install?

Comments welcome. Thank for the help

 

I'm in the middle of the same process. I decided to split the difference between upgraded stock stuff and a coil-over system. I'll let you know how I like it after I drive it like Smokey and the Bandit over the weekend.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ml#post6757361

 

If you're not racing it the stock control arms are fine. Replacement of the bushings with bearings is nice for longevity and precision (which may require new control arms depending on who you go with).

500lb springs, good shocks, 1" drop call it a day.

I prefer Wilwood for brakes.

 

thanks folks i will keep it simple. Looking at spherical bearing LCA with adjustable strut rod as well. then onto the power steering conversion.

 

yes, coil overs are for appearance only. they do not affect geometry.

as mentioned, 500 lb springs are way more than enough.

kyb gray shocks are soft, the white ones are noticeably stiffer. then you have bilsteins or koni's both are overkill for a mild set up. imo.

it's way too easy to make it way too stiff.

 

They do affect geometry if you get ones that connect to the LCA, and it is improved (although to what extent is debatable). If you connect them to the UCA the only benefit is easy ride height adjustment... Oh and you never need a spring compressor again

 

Bilsteins aren't overkill on a mild setup if you get the right shock (the street valving, not sport). Shocks make or break the suspension package, and a really good shock like a Bilstein will give you a car that rides really nice and has excellent control.

Coil overs MAY effect geometry. It can't change control arm geometry, but you can change the geometry of how the control arm interacts with the shock/spring. The closer inboard the shock sits on the arm, the more leverage the control arm has to move the shock/spring...so you need a stiffer shock/spring to resist it. When you move the mount closer to the ball joint on the control arm (Maier's kit does this on the UCA for instance) the arm doesn't have as much leverage to force motion in the shock/spring package. So the control arm applies less force to the shock/spring (the control arm is a lever) but moves them farther. That means you let the shock and spring do more of the work (which is what they're intended to do). This gives you better suspension resolution and you can run a softer spring and/or a shock with more precision. You get better ride quality AND control.

Not worth it if you're not racing or aren't made of money.

Honestly the stock suspension on the Classics with an upper arm drop and some good springs and shocks can perform WELL beyond what most drivers are capable of.

 

This.




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+1

I've already been through all of that. I run factory control arms, 560lb (.620") coil springs, roller perches, Edelbrock IAS shocks, a 15/16" sway bar, and OE-style Kelsey-Hayes front discs (non-power). I drive my car hard (lots of twisty country roads), and it keeps up with almost everything I throw at it. The only complaint I have is with a bit of excess body roll in the rear, which I may try to counter with an added rear and slightly larger front sway bar. But most people don't drive their cars nearly as hard as I do, so I doubt you'd notice in everyday driving.