Fuel pressure reg to stablize fuel pressure??
01-12-2014, 06:06 AM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
Hi,
Which ever regulator you chose, run a liquid filled pressure gauge and insure it is burped. That is, read the instructions on how to do this. You'll get a more accurate reading. Your drifting needle may be affecting the reading your are currently seeing.
Which ever regulator you chose, run a liquid filled pressure gauge and insure it is burped. That is, read the instructions on how to do this. You'll get a more accurate reading. Your drifting needle may be affecting the reading your are currently seeing.
01-12-2014, 07:00 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
Thanks for the help!
I think I want this FPR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13205/overview/
Where is a good place for the regulator? I currently run a solid steel line from the pump "out" to the back of the carb before it switches over to rubber fuel line.
Is placing the reg inline free floating on this solid steel line a bad idea? It would cause some odd bends to make it work....
Should it be fender mounted?
What line should I run between the pump and the reg "IN" what about reg "out" back the the carb either all the way or back to the solid steel line??
I think I want this FPR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13205/overview/
Where is a good place for the regulator? I currently run a solid steel line from the pump "out" to the back of the carb before it switches over to rubber fuel line.
Is placing the reg inline free floating on this solid steel line a bad idea? It would cause some odd bends to make it work....
Should it be fender mounted?
What line should I run between the pump and the reg "IN" what about reg "out" back the the carb either all the way or back to the solid steel line??
01-12-2014, 07:51 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
Hi,
That Summit FPR is pretty darn nice, however, for a premium number. I've been running a regulator half the cost and has kept my Webers happy for a couple of years. As for mounting, Mine is located on the firewall due to the entrance point of the lead carb. I have a hard line to the regulator "IN" and a braided flexible from the Reg. "out" to the carb inlet.
That Summit FPR is pretty darn nice, however, for a premium number. I've been running a regulator half the cost and has kept my Webers happy for a couple of years. As for mounting, Mine is located on the firewall due to the entrance point of the lead carb. I have a hard line to the regulator "IN" and a braided flexible from the Reg. "out" to the carb inlet.
01-12-2014, 08:34 PM
#15
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
The main reason I chose the firewall is I could route the fuel line away from the heat of the block. Also, it's a short jump to the carb again, away from the heat of the block.
01-15-2014, 11:25 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
Installed the regulator and then the next day the fuel pump.
Installing the regulator solved almost all the problems. Fuel pressure immediately stabilized and no longer fluttered or changed rapidly. The fuel pressure gauge needle is rock solid it only dropped off when incoming pressure was less than demand.
I installed the edelbrock fuel pump tonight and haven't driven it enough yet to tell if it is going to solve the pressure drop issues but I cant imagine it doing it any more. A big plus is it seems the edelbrock fuel pump like my old carter bleeds off fuel pressure directly upon shutting down. The Holley would not and would take 8 hrs or more to bleed off leaving the fuel lines charged. I like how the edelbrock does not do this.
One thing it left me with was a bit of a plumbing mess a few angles changed and the reg required a few fittings which look out of place. I was considering switching the fuel system from the pump to carb all over to AN fittings and custom cutting my own lines and getting the nice AN fittings. I have never used them before but I really like how the line is flexible and everything unscrews, looks neat too.
Right now I run a hard line that runs from the fuel pump up to the height of the union of the head and intake on driver side then it runs back towards the firewall following the line between the valve cover and the head on the intake side and stops at the firewall side of the valve cover and goes to rubber hose that meets the reg on the firewall. Rubber hose from the reg out to the nipple on the metal dual feed fuel line that runs to the front and rear carb fuel inlets.
I can't really think of a better way to route it but if I was going to go AN I would want to make sure I routed it the best I could before I got the parts...any suggestions on this?
Thanks
-Gun
Installing the regulator solved almost all the problems. Fuel pressure immediately stabilized and no longer fluttered or changed rapidly. The fuel pressure gauge needle is rock solid it only dropped off when incoming pressure was less than demand.
I installed the edelbrock fuel pump tonight and haven't driven it enough yet to tell if it is going to solve the pressure drop issues but I cant imagine it doing it any more. A big plus is it seems the edelbrock fuel pump like my old carter bleeds off fuel pressure directly upon shutting down. The Holley would not and would take 8 hrs or more to bleed off leaving the fuel lines charged. I like how the edelbrock does not do this.
One thing it left me with was a bit of a plumbing mess a few angles changed and the reg required a few fittings which look out of place. I was considering switching the fuel system from the pump to carb all over to AN fittings and custom cutting my own lines and getting the nice AN fittings. I have never used them before but I really like how the line is flexible and everything unscrews, looks neat too.
Right now I run a hard line that runs from the fuel pump up to the height of the union of the head and intake on driver side then it runs back towards the firewall following the line between the valve cover and the head on the intake side and stops at the firewall side of the valve cover and goes to rubber hose that meets the reg on the firewall. Rubber hose from the reg out to the nipple on the metal dual feed fuel line that runs to the front and rear carb fuel inlets.
I can't really think of a better way to route it but if I was going to go AN I would want to make sure I routed it the best I could before I got the parts...any suggestions on this?
Thanks
-Gun
01-16-2014, 02:35 AM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Teflon. I prefer using Aeroquip ptfe stainless braided hose with the nickel plated steel fittings. Easy to assemble, fittings are reusable. For sizes I can't get in Aeroquip I've used Fragola without issue.
Some of the rubber **** leaks, and the fittings are a total pia to install. Teflon is pretty non reactive, so it works really well for modern fuels that have additives that can attack some types of rubber lines.
Just wrap some tape around where you want to cut it, and use a dremel with a metal cutting blade to cut through the middle of the tape...that way both ends are still taped after cutting. The cutting wheels go through the stainless braids cleanly, but the teflon will impact it and eat them up pretty fast. I try to just cut through the stainless jacket all the way around, then snip the hose underneath.
Some of the rubber **** leaks, and the fittings are a total pia to install. Teflon is pretty non reactive, so it works really well for modern fuels that have additives that can attack some types of rubber lines.
Just wrap some tape around where you want to cut it, and use a dremel with a metal cutting blade to cut through the middle of the tape...that way both ends are still taped after cutting. The cutting wheels go through the stainless braids cleanly, but the teflon will impact it and eat them up pretty fast. I try to just cut through the stainless jacket all the way around, then snip the hose underneath.
Last edited by 67mustang302; 01-16-2014 at 02:37 AM.
01-16-2014, 05:28 AM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 356
Hi,
Regarding,....... "I can't really think of a better way to route it but if I was going to go AN I would want to make sure I routed it the best I could before I got the parts...any suggestions on this?"
To each his own, I'm not a fan of any fuel line running on or very near the engine, this is just me. If I understand you correctly, I would have routed the hard fuel line from the mechanical pump along the driver's side fender well or frame rail back to the firewall and over to the regulator. Then, a flexible line, as you have mentioned, to the carb.
Yes, as you can see from my pics, I'm a fan of AN fittings and SS flexible fuel lines. Yes, it's expensive, but, it sure does look tidy.
Good Luck with your project.
Regarding,....... "I can't really think of a better way to route it but if I was going to go AN I would want to make sure I routed it the best I could before I got the parts...any suggestions on this?"
To each his own, I'm not a fan of any fuel line running on or very near the engine, this is just me. If I understand you correctly, I would have routed the hard fuel line from the mechanical pump along the driver's side fender well or frame rail back to the firewall and over to the regulator. Then, a flexible line, as you have mentioned, to the carb.
Yes, as you can see from my pics, I'm a fan of AN fittings and SS flexible fuel lines. Yes, it's expensive, but, it sure does look tidy.
Good Luck with your project.
