From the dead.. please help
"Getting old is cruel.. "
LOL!!! Getting old isn't for wimps either !!!
To properly weld in place a torque box you need the two piece kind to start with as you'll need access to properly weld in the first piece before capping it with the second piece. If you try to weld a 1 piece box in place you miss the backside/an area that should have been welded in place.
The 351W will fit just great - they have a taller deck than a 302 so it'll sit a tad bit higher but only about an inch or so - in my opinion WELL worth it for the extra cubes (torque). Some items from the 302 can be used with a 351W but not all of them - the second link below has that info at the end of the article. Clearances in a 65/66 engine compartment weren't always generous but it'll fit without any shock tower mods. You could use some adjustable motor mounts and lower it a bit I guess but I'm going with the old '60-'65 Falcon/'64-'65 Mustang bolt in motor mounts and then adding a driver's side torque strap to the front of the driver's side head to help hold it down when I really get on it - ask John Dinkel at OTR about this setup.
I've got a 4 speed toploader so I'm reusing it and then adding a Gear Vendors overdrive unit to it then regearing my 9 inch rear end to 3.70 or 3.89. I would consider this a bulletproof combo. Or get a T56 Magnum if you want to - they are hearty as well. (I would have just gone with a T56 Magnum if I hadn't already owned the toploader)
Link to a 408 build. I'm having mine built by Kilpatrick's in Waukesha.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...ouble-trouble/
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...-351w-stroker/
LOL!!! Getting old isn't for wimps either !!!
To properly weld in place a torque box you need the two piece kind to start with as you'll need access to properly weld in the first piece before capping it with the second piece. If you try to weld a 1 piece box in place you miss the backside/an area that should have been welded in place.
The 351W will fit just great - they have a taller deck than a 302 so it'll sit a tad bit higher but only about an inch or so - in my opinion WELL worth it for the extra cubes (torque). Some items from the 302 can be used with a 351W but not all of them - the second link below has that info at the end of the article. Clearances in a 65/66 engine compartment weren't always generous but it'll fit without any shock tower mods. You could use some adjustable motor mounts and lower it a bit I guess but I'm going with the old '60-'65 Falcon/'64-'65 Mustang bolt in motor mounts and then adding a driver's side torque strap to the front of the driver's side head to help hold it down when I really get on it - ask John Dinkel at OTR about this setup.
I've got a 4 speed toploader so I'm reusing it and then adding a Gear Vendors overdrive unit to it then regearing my 9 inch rear end to 3.70 or 3.89. I would consider this a bulletproof combo. Or get a T56 Magnum if you want to - they are hearty as well. (I would have just gone with a T56 Magnum if I hadn't already owned the toploader)
Link to a 408 build. I'm having mine built by Kilpatrick's in Waukesha.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...ouble-trouble/
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...-351w-stroker/
So a 351w will fit with headers and a standard height hood? If so, that would be great.
If you don't mind me asking, how much is your 351 going to set you back?
Torque straps are something we used to do with chains and brackets. Glad to see they're still useful.
The 9" I just picked up is 3:10.. Unless I'll be running the Texas mile I'll need to bring them down to 3:50's or so.
Bigger is better. Original 289 HiPo's only put out 271 HP and Shelby only coaxed 306 or so out of the race motors. I think big block motor mounts drop the engine a bit in later cars. Not sure if it would work in a 66. Take as much weight off the front as possible and use good brakes. Roller bearing spring perches, boxed control arms and the Shelby drop to the upper control arms also helps. If you want power steering, look at the Borgeson box.
Yep - 351W with headers and a standard hood will fit. I remember reading an article that I think I saved from many years ago of a fellow with the last name of Shelby (Not Carroll but something else) and he had a 65 or 66 that was gold/tan in color and he fit a 351W in it and you couldn't really tell that it wasn't a small block 302. It was a killer but subtle looking car. I'll see if I can find the article again.
My 408 will probably be around 8-10K depending on the heads.
Here are some links that have Jerry Shelby's Mustang on it. I love his car...
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featu...tang-fastback/
http://www.mustangsteve.com/rideheight.html
My 408 will probably be around 8-10K depending on the heads.
Here are some links that have Jerry Shelby's Mustang on it. I love his car...
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featu...tang-fastback/
http://www.mustangsteve.com/rideheight.html
Last edited by 68SCode4speed; Mar 27, 2016 at 08:28 PM.
ok, you dont need a 351w for your hp goals and they are a very tight fit at the steering box but they will fit.
if you want big torque and dont like to rev an engine over around 5200 rpm, the 351 w is the way to go but you can build it to spin 7000 if you want . its pointless to go only 408 on one . i would go 418 to get more benefit from the taller block.
you can easily get 400 hp at 6000 rpm on a 347 stroker and it will fit easier and you can use a 289 or 302 block.
347 forged stroker kit
steel main caps with dowels.
afr 185 cc heads
this cam with 1.6 rockers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-10
eddy air gap intake
quick fuel 750 mechanical with annular boosters.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-an/overview/
.
mcleod 5 speed trans
.
if you want big torque and dont like to rev an engine over around 5200 rpm, the 351 w is the way to go but you can build it to spin 7000 if you want . its pointless to go only 408 on one . i would go 418 to get more benefit from the taller block.
you can easily get 400 hp at 6000 rpm on a 347 stroker and it will fit easier and you can use a 289 or 302 block.
347 forged stroker kit
steel main caps with dowels.
afr 185 cc heads
this cam with 1.6 rockers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-10
eddy air gap intake
quick fuel 750 mechanical with annular boosters.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-an/overview/
.
mcleod 5 speed trans
.
Last edited by barnett468; Mar 27, 2016 at 10:38 PM.
ok, you dont need a 351w for your hp goals and they are a very tight fit at the steering box but they will fit.
if you want big torque and dont like to rev an engine over around 5200 rpm, the 351 w is the way to go but you can build it to spin 7000 if you want . its pointless to go only 408 on one . i would go 418 to get more benefit from the taller block.
you can easily get 400 hp at 6000 rpm on a 347 stroker and it will fit easier and you can use a 289 or 302 block.
347 forged stroker kit
steel main caps with dowels.
afr 185 cc heads
this cam with 1.6 rockers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-10
eddy air gap intake
quick fuel 750 mechanical with annular boosters.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-an/overview/
.
mcleod 5 speed trans
.
if you want big torque and dont like to rev an engine over around 5200 rpm, the 351 w is the way to go but you can build it to spin 7000 if you want . its pointless to go only 408 on one . i would go 418 to get more benefit from the taller block.
you can easily get 400 hp at 6000 rpm on a 347 stroker and it will fit easier and you can use a 289 or 302 block.
347 forged stroker kit
steel main caps with dowels.
afr 185 cc heads
this cam with 1.6 rockers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-10
eddy air gap intake
quick fuel 750 mechanical with annular boosters.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-an/overview/
.
mcleod 5 speed trans
.
AFR heads.. just noticed that.. what are those? What makes them good.
WHat makes that carb worth $750 as compared to a Holley?
What type of ignition would you use?
Thanks.
you need high flow heads to make big power . stock heads are useless for that.
that carb has annular boosters . you can get it without them and save some money but they will increase power and throttle response.
pertronix III distributor and msd epoxy coil.
use an ATI damper.
that carb has annular boosters . you can get it without them and save some money but they will increase power and throttle response.
pertronix III distributor and msd epoxy coil.
use an ATI damper.
Last edited by barnett468; Mar 28, 2016 at 12:10 AM.
you need high flow heads to make big power . stock heads are useless for that.
that carb has annular boosters . you can get it without them and save some money but they will increase power and throttle response.
pertronix III distributor and msd epoxy coil.
use an ATI damper.
that carb has annular boosters . you can get it without them and save some money but they will increase power and throttle response.
pertronix III distributor and msd epoxy coil.
use an ATI damper.
Once I decide on which engine to go with I'll make a post and ask for more in depth advice to plan the build. I totally get the 351w. But I really do like the small block for what many consider its drawbacks. I've been running engines and the visuals and driving experiences required through my mind for a few months now. Every engine type has it's advantages. I've even considered a salvaged Ecoboost.. or a Coyote. Cost is a big part of this as well.. 30+ years ago I had a Boss 302, top loader, and 9" in my 66.. and it was lowered with metal flares, roll cage, loved that car. The Boss 302 had a fun type of power and an awesome. I read somewhere how to make a Boss motor from modern parts without breaking the bank.. but I can't find that article again.
Thank you everyone. I'm writing all this down and looking up parts suggested and learning..
If you've really got a hard-on for a Boss then check out Fords modern Boss setups. By the time you get done with the parts scrounging, machining and general time consuming nut roll of building your own, you're going to be as near as makes no difference to being in the same cost ball park as just buying a crate engine from Ford.
But, they ain't cheap.
But, they ain't cheap.
If you've really got a hard-on for a Boss then check out Fords modern Boss setups. By the time you get done with the parts scrounging, machining and general time consuming nut roll of building your own, you're going to be as near as makes no difference to being in the same cost ball park as just buying a crate engine from Ford.
But, they ain't cheap.
But, they ain't cheap.


