PLEASE help -- '68 not running right
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
From: Washington
yeah plugs look lean...Do you have aluminum heads..if so what make?
Here is an example of my fuel pump output...its about twice what you have but so is the flywheel / starter rpm...its likely you have sufficient fuel flow (at least to that point) But it was a bit hard from the angle to judge the actual output of your system...do you think it was less that half the output of the video I posted? How big was that container? I used a Gatorade bottle (the big size)
Here is an example of my fuel pump output...its about twice what you have but so is the flywheel / starter rpm...its likely you have sufficient fuel flow (at least to that point) But it was a bit hard from the angle to judge the actual output of your system...do you think it was less that half the output of the video I posted? How big was that container? I used a Gatorade bottle (the big size)
I would say mine is about half of that.....it's one of those large family-size or whatever yogurt containers you get at the grocery store. Fairly big. I could be a little less, but as I said, I ran fine prior to new cam.
I'm starting to think my head springs are too weak and I'm floating valves. I don't think I put anything especially strong on there.....bah. Is that possible?
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,398
From: arizona
Pretty sure I just have stock heads on there.
I would say mine is about half of that.....it's one of those large family-size or whatever yogurt containers you get at the grocery store. Fairly big. I could be a little less, but as I said, I ran fine prior to new cam.
I'm starting to think my head springs are too weak and I'm floating valves. I don't think I put anything especially strong on there.....bah. Is that possible?
I would say mine is about half of that.....it's one of those large family-size or whatever yogurt containers you get at the grocery store. Fairly big. I could be a little less, but as I said, I ran fine prior to new cam.
I'm starting to think my head springs are too weak and I'm floating valves. I don't think I put anything especially strong on there.....bah. Is that possible?
if you floor it from a stop and it runs like crap, it is not the springs . this does not mean that your springs are not weak if this cam has mush more lift than the previous one it might be a prob.
need all your cam and spring specs to tell.
.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,676
From: Goodyear, AZ
There are two firing orders. You stated a windsor firing order but there is a different order for the 351 than the 289/302. when i replaced my cam, even though it said it was for a 289/302, it was the 351 order. it had similar issues as you state here. please look up the cam specs and double check the firing order.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
From: Washington
There are two firing orders. You stated a windsor firing order but there is a different order for the 351 than the 289/302. when i replaced my cam, even though it said it was for a 289/302, it was the 351 order. it had similar issues as you state here. please look up the cam specs and double check the firing order.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
From: Washington
if the valves are floating it will be at higher rpm and it wil pop and spit and gesticulate if they are floating bad enough.
if you floor it from a stop and it runs like crap, it is not the springs . this does not mean that your springs are not weak if this cam has mush more lift than the previous one it might be a prob.
need all your cam and spring specs to tell.
.
if you floor it from a stop and it runs like crap, it is not the springs . this does not mean that your springs are not weak if this cam has mush more lift than the previous one it might be a prob.
need all your cam and spring specs to tell.
.
I'm trying to find my spring specs. I'll post them if I do.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,398
From: arizona
What rpm does the problem begin at?
If you have press in rocker studs, you might have some that are pulling out.
.
Last edited by barnett468; May 3, 2016 at 05:31 PM.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,212
From: Hills of California
If the above is true then its very critical that you provide a timing curve...Please tell me you checked that right?
What is your timing at:
idle:
1000 RPM:
2000 RPM:
4000 RPM:
5000 RPM:
If you dont have a timing light and you dont know your base, total or curve and you dont have a tach. You need to stop whatever you got planed to do next to the car and get a good timing light with a built in tach and an option to set a timing offset. For example if you wanted to set you total timing to 32 deg you would simply set your tach to 32 deg advance and then rev up the engine to about 3000 and rotate the dizzy until the timing mark was on zero. Because you have 32 adv set on the tach you can always use zero to get your readings from...more precise than the rusy numbers on the damper or tape.
-Gun
What is your timing at:
idle:
1000 RPM:
2000 RPM:
4000 RPM:
5000 RPM:
If you dont have a timing light and you dont know your base, total or curve and you dont have a tach. You need to stop whatever you got planed to do next to the car and get a good timing light with a built in tach and an option to set a timing offset. For example if you wanted to set you total timing to 32 deg you would simply set your tach to 32 deg advance and then rev up the engine to about 3000 and rotate the dizzy until the timing mark was on zero. Because you have 32 adv set on the tach you can always use zero to get your readings from...more precise than the rusy numbers on the damper or tape.
-Gun
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
From: Washington
Found the issue.
I gave up and pulled it back apart. Same lifter had broken, so block was toast and new cam ruined. I picked up a new block and I'm building a new engine for it. Thanks for all the help.
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