3G Install Q's
#1
3G Install Q's
I know I can get rid of the factory voltage regular with this swap. My question pertains to the leftmost two terminals on the factory regulator. The right two feed directly to the alternator according to the manual so they obviously get eliminated. The manual I have says the leftmost terminal goes to the dash panel, I believe this is the 12v source for some lights and it needs a CONSTANT 12v source, correct?
(sorry for terminology in advance, I haven't set up a new photo embedding account since photobucket's policy changed)
The 2nd leftmost terminal is shared with 2 leads, one goes to the left side of the starter solenoid, and one goes to the radio condensor.
For the lead going to the left side of the starter solenoid, this just gets eliminated correct?
What the hell is the radio condensor used for, does it need 12v constant or 12v switched orrr??
I believe I almost have wrapped my mind around the swap.
(sorry for terminology in advance, I haven't set up a new photo embedding account since photobucket's policy changed)
The 2nd leftmost terminal is shared with 2 leads, one goes to the left side of the starter solenoid, and one goes to the radio condensor.
For the lead going to the left side of the starter solenoid, this just gets eliminated correct?
What the hell is the radio condensor used for, does it need 12v constant or 12v switched orrr??
I believe I almost have wrapped my mind around the swap.
#2
I know I can get rid of the factory voltage regular with this swap. My question pertains to the leftmost two terminals on the factory regulator. The right two feed directly to the alternator according to the manual so they obviously get eliminated. The manual I have says the leftmost terminal goes to the dash panel, I believe this is the 12v source for some lights and it needs a CONSTANT 12v source, correct?
(sorry for terminology in advance, I haven't set up a new photo embedding account since photobucket's policy changed)
The 2nd leftmost terminal is shared with 2 leads, one goes to the left side of the starter solenoid, and one goes to the radio condensor.
For the lead going to the left side of the starter solenoid, this just gets eliminated correct?
What the hell is the radio condensor used for, does it need 12v constant or 12v switched orrr??
I believe I almost have wrapped my mind around the swap.
(sorry for terminology in advance, I haven't set up a new photo embedding account since photobucket's policy changed)
The 2nd leftmost terminal is shared with 2 leads, one goes to the left side of the starter solenoid, and one goes to the radio condensor.
For the lead going to the left side of the starter solenoid, this just gets eliminated correct?
What the hell is the radio condensor used for, does it need 12v constant or 12v switched orrr??
I believe I almost have wrapped my mind around the swap.
To get it to work, either an idiot lite in the instrument panel must be retained, or a resistor of about 500 ohms connected in place of the idiot lite. One connection of the lite, or resistor, or both connected in parallel), is connected to 12 V. B+ from the ignition switch, "hot" in Start and Run. The other bulb or resistor connection goes to the Alternator terminal marked "I". The alternator "S" terminals, if it has two of them, must be connected together, jumpered together. The "A" terminal and main output terminal, "B+", are both connected to one end of a fusible link, for alternator protection, other end of link goes to the Battery + terminal.
Many wiring diagrams also include a fusible link in the lead coming from "A" terminal. 1996 F-Series used only one, a # 12 gauge, in the battery lead, others, Mustang included use the second one also.
That help? I can post a diagram, if needed. imp
#3
I am doing the 130amp 3G with 7" case, hence getting rid of the external regulator. I got this alternator really cheap, and since I am getting ready to install electric cooling fans this upgrade is first. I really wanted a 3G because of their great reputation and that way I could go to any parts store and get one.
The terminal position on classic mustang regulators looks like it moved around from year to year which I now realize didn't help my first post. Even the manuals show they are different.
If this diagram is correct for the new alternator I understand everything in the picture but the "I" terminal.
http://1bad6t.com/diagrams/3Ginstall.jpg
In this it shows the two S terminals jumped together so that's easy as is everything else.
1)What gets hooked up to the green and red lead labeled "I"?
Ignition switched 12v?
2)Is there already a lead that went to the original regulator with 12v ignition switched?
If ^ is true, then I understand the diagram I posted perfectly. This still leaves me with questions about the existing two leads on the regulator (two leftmost).
My diagram shows that one of these (the leftmost terminal) goes all the way to the dash panel.
3)Does this lead need constant 12v? Other?
The other (2nd leftmost terminal) is split between a radio condensor and the left side of the starter relay. Obviously the lead from the regulator to the left side of the starter relay gets eliminated as does the regulator.
4)What about the lead to the radio condensor?
I am unclear what is meant by needing an idiot light so you lost me with that. I see the diagram mentions an alternator warning light. My manual shows there is one on the dash panel.
I am not a total newb to electronics but I don't want to fry anything. Sorry for the long post.
The terminal position on classic mustang regulators looks like it moved around from year to year which I now realize didn't help my first post. Even the manuals show they are different.
If this diagram is correct for the new alternator I understand everything in the picture but the "I" terminal.
http://1bad6t.com/diagrams/3Ginstall.jpg
In this it shows the two S terminals jumped together so that's easy as is everything else.
1)What gets hooked up to the green and red lead labeled "I"?
Ignition switched 12v?
2)Is there already a lead that went to the original regulator with 12v ignition switched?
If ^ is true, then I understand the diagram I posted perfectly. This still leaves me with questions about the existing two leads on the regulator (two leftmost).
My diagram shows that one of these (the leftmost terminal) goes all the way to the dash panel.
3)Does this lead need constant 12v? Other?
The other (2nd leftmost terminal) is split between a radio condensor and the left side of the starter relay. Obviously the lead from the regulator to the left side of the starter relay gets eliminated as does the regulator.
4)What about the lead to the radio condensor?
I am unclear what is meant by needing an idiot light so you lost me with that. I see the diagram mentions an alternator warning light. My manual shows there is one on the dash panel.
I am not a total newb to electronics but I don't want to fry anything. Sorry for the long post.
#4
On my wiring of the 3G alternator I wired the A wire to the fuse block, it is the exciter wire for the load on the electrical system. Here is a good read for how thing should work!
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml