Blast or dip?
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,576
From: Salisbury NC
Blast or dip?
Hey guys. I got my first mustang a few months ago and im in the process of restoring it. I've talked to some people that say i should have my car sandblasted and others who say i should have it dipped. I'm more that likely going to have it dipped but i was wondering what this process involves and what chemicals that it involves.
If somebody will tell me how to post pics ive got some that i will post[8D]
Thanks for all your help
If somebody will tell me how to post pics ive got some that i will post[8D]
Thanks for all your help
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Blast or dip?
Sandblasting can warp the metal if it isnt done correctly and leaves sand or blast media in spaces inside the car. It doesnt tear up the factory gap sealants at the welds and is generally cheaper than dipping, and can be applied to spots or the entire vehicle.
Dipping removes EVERYTHING that isnt solid metal. It will remove most oxidized metal (rusted) and all the sealant on the body. You will get back a completely bare shell. It affects the entire vehicle, and you will have to apply sealants to the shell and caulk the gaps again. Ensuring the chemicals are all completely gone is required, as anything lingering will ruin paint applied to the surface. Areas like Torque boxes, rocker panels, and kick panel areas inside where the doors bolt on could retain some chemical. Any moisture be it humidity, rain or any water at all on it will cause surface rust in just a few hours.
Chemical/Aircraft stripper is also an effective way to remove old layers of paint. It is very caustic and will burn your skin on contact. I have stripped 3 cars using chem and got burned every time. It is quicker and cleaner than sanding the entire car to bare metal, but it does leave a residue that is considered hazardous waste in some areas. Plastic under the car works best to contain the paint scrapped off. This works best when you arent replacing most of the sheetmetal due to rust or damage.
Dipping is the best way to remove everything and start over from a bare shell. its more involved and more expensive but if done correctly yields a better restoration. You must have a way to transport the body parts to be dipped, and ensure they dont get wet.
If it isnt terribly rusted and has good spots on it, sandblasting will be effective and cost much less. Other media such as walnut shells or plastic abrasives wont warp the metal like sand will. I am sandblasting my 71, doing the work myself but I have the space required and the equipment to do so. More sand on my gravel driveway isnt a big deal to me, and the nearest neighbor is half a mile away.
Dipping removes EVERYTHING that isnt solid metal. It will remove most oxidized metal (rusted) and all the sealant on the body. You will get back a completely bare shell. It affects the entire vehicle, and you will have to apply sealants to the shell and caulk the gaps again. Ensuring the chemicals are all completely gone is required, as anything lingering will ruin paint applied to the surface. Areas like Torque boxes, rocker panels, and kick panel areas inside where the doors bolt on could retain some chemical. Any moisture be it humidity, rain or any water at all on it will cause surface rust in just a few hours.
Chemical/Aircraft stripper is also an effective way to remove old layers of paint. It is very caustic and will burn your skin on contact. I have stripped 3 cars using chem and got burned every time. It is quicker and cleaner than sanding the entire car to bare metal, but it does leave a residue that is considered hazardous waste in some areas. Plastic under the car works best to contain the paint scrapped off. This works best when you arent replacing most of the sheetmetal due to rust or damage.
Dipping is the best way to remove everything and start over from a bare shell. its more involved and more expensive but if done correctly yields a better restoration. You must have a way to transport the body parts to be dipped, and ensure they dont get wet.
If it isnt terribly rusted and has good spots on it, sandblasting will be effective and cost much less. Other media such as walnut shells or plastic abrasives wont warp the metal like sand will. I am sandblasting my 71, doing the work myself but I have the space required and the equipment to do so. More sand on my gravel driveway isnt a big deal to me, and the nearest neighbor is half a mile away.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 374
From: new orleans
RE: Blast or dip?
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Sandblasting can warp the metal if it isnt done correctly and leaves sand or blast media in spaces inside the car. It doesnt tear up the factory gap sealants at the welds and is generally cheaper than dipping, and can be applied to spots or the entire vehicle.
Dipping removes EVERYTHING that isnt solid metal. It will remove most oxidized metal (rusted) and all the sealant on the body. You will get back a completely bare shell. It affects the entire vehicle, and you will have to apply sealants to the shell and caulk the gaps again. Ensuring the chemicals are all completely gone is required, as anything lingering will ruin paint applied to the surface. Areas like Torque boxes, rocker panels, and kick panel areas inside where the doors bolt on could retain some chemical. Any moisture be it humidity, rain or any water at all on it will cause surface rust in just a few hours.
Chemical/Aircraft stripper is also an effective way to remove old layers of paint. It is very caustic and will burn your skin on contact. I have stripped 3 cars using chem and got burned every time. It is quicker and cleaner than sanding the entire car to bare metal, but it does leave a residue that is considered hazardous waste in some areas. Plastic under the car works best to contain the paint scrapped off. This works best when you arent replacing most of the sheetmetal due to rust or damage.
Dipping is the best way to remove everything and start over from a bare shell. its more involved and more expensive but if done correctly yields a better restoration. You must have a way to transport the body parts to be dipped, and ensure they dont get wet.
If it isnt terribly rusted and has good spots on it, sandblasting will be effective and cost much less. Other media such as walnut shells or plastic abrasives wont warp the metal like sand will. I am sandblasting my 71, doing the work myself but I have the space required and the equipment to do so. More sand on my gravel driveway isnt a big deal to me, and the nearest neighbor is half a mile away.
Sandblasting can warp the metal if it isnt done correctly and leaves sand or blast media in spaces inside the car. It doesnt tear up the factory gap sealants at the welds and is generally cheaper than dipping, and can be applied to spots or the entire vehicle.
Dipping removes EVERYTHING that isnt solid metal. It will remove most oxidized metal (rusted) and all the sealant on the body. You will get back a completely bare shell. It affects the entire vehicle, and you will have to apply sealants to the shell and caulk the gaps again. Ensuring the chemicals are all completely gone is required, as anything lingering will ruin paint applied to the surface. Areas like Torque boxes, rocker panels, and kick panel areas inside where the doors bolt on could retain some chemical. Any moisture be it humidity, rain or any water at all on it will cause surface rust in just a few hours.
Chemical/Aircraft stripper is also an effective way to remove old layers of paint. It is very caustic and will burn your skin on contact. I have stripped 3 cars using chem and got burned every time. It is quicker and cleaner than sanding the entire car to bare metal, but it does leave a residue that is considered hazardous waste in some areas. Plastic under the car works best to contain the paint scrapped off. This works best when you arent replacing most of the sheetmetal due to rust or damage.
Dipping is the best way to remove everything and start over from a bare shell. its more involved and more expensive but if done correctly yields a better restoration. You must have a way to transport the body parts to be dipped, and ensure they dont get wet.
If it isnt terribly rusted and has good spots on it, sandblasting will be effective and cost much less. Other media such as walnut shells or plastic abrasives wont warp the metal like sand will. I am sandblasting my 71, doing the work myself but I have the space required and the equipment to do so. More sand on my gravel driveway isnt a big deal to me, and the nearest neighbor is half a mile away.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 25
RE: Blast or dip?
I have read that if you have a car dipped the car will rust in spots that you can't get to. This is because the liquid can remove old paint and sealant were you won't be able to recover it later.
I have no experiance with this I have replyed only to relay what I have read.
good luck
I have no experiance with this I have replyed only to relay what I have read.
good luck
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 9
From:
RE: Blast or dip?
What is a rough estimate of the costs:
Dipping:
E-coating?
Chemical / Aircraft stripper done myself:
Honestly, what amount of time and work are we talking about here?
Having it sandblasted:
Do you suggest removing ALL parts and starting with a completely bare shell?
Dipping:
E-coating?
Chemical / Aircraft stripper done myself:
Honestly, what amount of time and work are we talking about here?
Having it sandblasted:
Do you suggest removing ALL parts and starting with a completely bare shell?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 374
From: new orleans
RE: Blast or dip?
well for my application, i went with blasting because it was cheaper and easier (the guy picked up my car and delivered it after, i dont have a trailor). my father had a 1926 model t body that he opted to get dipped. you'll have to gut your car either way, but even more so if you get it dipped. to dip, the entire suspension, interior, drivetrain, etc. needs to be removed to go intot the tank. but if your car is rusted very badly, like my dad's model t, you should have it dipped.
my mustang, however, was not rusted so badly. just in the normal spots (floor pans, cowl, yadda yadda). i recommend taking a closer look at your car to see just how bad the rust is and making a judgement call based on that. you will probably only need to have it blasted, which means a little less work with taking the car down, plus it's cheaper.
Whichever way you choose, you would be wise to use some sort of rust inhibitor afterwards. i used a formula called RustBullet, but there are several other types you can try. it's fairly pricey, but worth it i think. when you have the car gutted out, you can put the rust bullet in any crack and crevis that you need to to form a perfect barrier against rust. you can even apply it directly onto rust to break it up and stop it from spreading. it's great stuff and i'm applying it to the underside of every inch of my mustang. good luck
my mustang, however, was not rusted so badly. just in the normal spots (floor pans, cowl, yadda yadda). i recommend taking a closer look at your car to see just how bad the rust is and making a judgement call based on that. you will probably only need to have it blasted, which means a little less work with taking the car down, plus it's cheaper.
Whichever way you choose, you would be wise to use some sort of rust inhibitor afterwards. i used a formula called RustBullet, but there are several other types you can try. it's fairly pricey, but worth it i think. when you have the car gutted out, you can put the rust bullet in any crack and crevis that you need to to form a perfect barrier against rust. you can even apply it directly onto rust to break it up and stop it from spreading. it's great stuff and i'm applying it to the underside of every inch of my mustang. good luck
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Blast or dip?
I did a 71 Firebird with paint stripper, cant remember how much the stuff cost. But complete exterior of the car to bare metal was about 8 hours. I did it over two days, wear some protective if you do it. It had 5 layers of paint on it. TYook me about 3 gallons of stripper. Much quicker than sanding my 67 Cougar, that took three weeks because I didnt have a great air compressor like I do now.
Cost of dipping/blasting varies state to state, city to city. Call around and see what is available in your area.
Cost of dipping/blasting varies state to state, city to city. Call around and see what is available in your area.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,576
From: Salisbury NC
RE: Blast or dip?
my car is pretty rusty so im still leaning towards the dipping proccess but is it true that the dip will caust my car to rust in spots that i wont be able to get to to repair?