Learning ALOT but still need help
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Learning ALOT but still need help
OK, I have been reading the articles in the FAQ section of this forume. I read where there seemed to be ALOT of rust problems in the 65 and 66's. I was reading where Ford had problems in the cowl area and they leaked alot, and caused alot of rust damage on the floor pans, front rails, kick panels, ect.... What do I do in the resoration process to fix these problem areas? Is there a way to sort of 'Fix' these bugs so it does not happen again? This water problem seemed to be around the rear glass and trunk area as well, which caused alot of rust in the Trunk and floors. Is there a way to improve this as well in the restoration process?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 374
From: new orleans
RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
get it dipped or blasted first. then you should use some sort of rust inhibitor afterwards. i used a formula called RustBullet, but there are several other types you can try. it's fairly pricey, but worth it i think. when you have the car gutted out, you can put the rust bullet in any crack and crevis that you need to to form a perfect barrier against rust. you can even apply it directly onto rust to break it up and stop it from spreading. it's great stuff and i'm applying it to the underside of every inch of my mustang. good luck
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 153
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RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
Thanks man,
It seem to me when I go look for a car. It might not be a ba idea to find something cheap that needs total rust repair. That way I can them coat all the parts with this rust inhibiter when I take the car all to peices....is this correct?
It seem to me when I go look for a car. It might not be a ba idea to find something cheap that needs total rust repair. That way I can them coat all the parts with this rust inhibiter when I take the car all to peices....is this correct?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 385
From:
RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
there is a rust converter product available i know of, you can get it at a napa store, im not sure of the name but it cant be hard to find in there, use that and then you could use some of that lizard skin stuff, its a spray and acts as a sound deadener as well as insulation, and is totally fire retardent, its pretty awesome stuff, you can even sand it smooth if you wanted to and paint it.
http://www.lizardskin.com/--- go to that link and it will tell you all about it, my dad used it and its awesome stuff.
http://www.lizardskin.com/--- go to that link and it will tell you all about it, my dad used it and its awesome stuff.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
Well having a severly rusted Mustang torn down in the shop right now, I can tell you this. The sheetmetal alone has already cost me $3000, that does not include the labor to put it on, the cleaning of the car in preperation to installing new metal, and the places I found rust after disassembly that I still need to buy replacement panels for.
I figure I still need another $1000-$1500 for metal to finnish this car. Add into that the labor involved, I already have 200 hours in the car right now, and I havent welded a single piece on yet. Gotta find all that rust before I put it back together, or I will have a pretty lawn ornament that cant be driven because the torque boxes are falling off.
You can fix certain design flaws that the factory either couldnt afford to do, or had no idea of them untill years later. Ie the window leaks. That all comes with age too, if it leaked from the factory, it would be rusted out in a matter of a few years in some states, like michigan, lots of snow salkt and ice. A poorly built car wont live long where there is snow and the roads are salted.
If you buy a rustbucket, it could be easier to buy all the sheetmetal available for the car, weld it all together using the old car as a template and then just swap the vin to the new sheetmetal. The only parts of my 71 that arent getting work done on them are the cowl and the roof. Everything else is rusted, dented, or missing.
If you do a car like that, be sure its resale value or value to YOU when it done is more than the cost to fix it. Would yo ube willing to pay $55,000 for a six cylinder 72 Grande for example?
I figure I still need another $1000-$1500 for metal to finnish this car. Add into that the labor involved, I already have 200 hours in the car right now, and I havent welded a single piece on yet. Gotta find all that rust before I put it back together, or I will have a pretty lawn ornament that cant be driven because the torque boxes are falling off.
You can fix certain design flaws that the factory either couldnt afford to do, or had no idea of them untill years later. Ie the window leaks. That all comes with age too, if it leaked from the factory, it would be rusted out in a matter of a few years in some states, like michigan, lots of snow salkt and ice. A poorly built car wont live long where there is snow and the roads are salted.
If you buy a rustbucket, it could be easier to buy all the sheetmetal available for the car, weld it all together using the old car as a template and then just swap the vin to the new sheetmetal. The only parts of my 71 that arent getting work done on them are the cowl and the roof. Everything else is rusted, dented, or missing.
If you do a car like that, be sure its resale value or value to YOU when it done is more than the cost to fix it. Would yo ube willing to pay $55,000 for a six cylinder 72 Grande for example?
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 153
From:
RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Well having a severly rusted Mustang torn down in the shop right now, I can tell you this. The sheetmetal alone has already cost me $3000, that does not include the labor to put it on, the cleaning of the car in preperation to installing new metal, and the places I found rust after disassembly that I still need to buy replacement panels for.
I figure I still need another $1000-$1500 for metal to finnish this car. Add into that the labor involved, I already have 200 hours in the car right now, and I havent welded a single piece on yet. Gotta find all that rust before I put it back together, or I will have a pretty lawn ornament that cant be driven because the torque boxes are falling off.
You can fix certain design flaws that the factory either couldnt afford to do, or had no idea of them untill years later. Ie the window leaks. That all comes with age too, if it leaked from the factory, it would be rusted out in a matter of a few years in some states, like michigan, lots of snow salkt and ice. A poorly built car wont live long where there is snow and the roads are salted.
If you buy a rustbucket, it could be easier to buy all the sheetmetal available for the car, weld it all together using the old car as a template and then just swap the vin to the new sheetmetal. The only parts of my 71 that arent getting work done on them are the cowl and the roof. Everything else is rusted, dented, or missing.
If you do a car like that, be sure its resale value or value to YOU when it done is more than the cost to fix it. Would yo ube willing to pay $55,000 for a six cylinder 72 Grande for example?
Well having a severly rusted Mustang torn down in the shop right now, I can tell you this. The sheetmetal alone has already cost me $3000, that does not include the labor to put it on, the cleaning of the car in preperation to installing new metal, and the places I found rust after disassembly that I still need to buy replacement panels for.
I figure I still need another $1000-$1500 for metal to finnish this car. Add into that the labor involved, I already have 200 hours in the car right now, and I havent welded a single piece on yet. Gotta find all that rust before I put it back together, or I will have a pretty lawn ornament that cant be driven because the torque boxes are falling off.
You can fix certain design flaws that the factory either couldnt afford to do, or had no idea of them untill years later. Ie the window leaks. That all comes with age too, if it leaked from the factory, it would be rusted out in a matter of a few years in some states, like michigan, lots of snow salkt and ice. A poorly built car wont live long where there is snow and the roads are salted.
If you buy a rustbucket, it could be easier to buy all the sheetmetal available for the car, weld it all together using the old car as a template and then just swap the vin to the new sheetmetal. The only parts of my 71 that arent getting work done on them are the cowl and the roof. Everything else is rusted, dented, or missing.
If you do a car like that, be sure its resale value or value to YOU when it done is more than the cost to fix it. Would yo ube willing to pay $55,000 for a six cylinder 72 Grande for example?
Being that said, does it make sense to look for the must "rust free" body? Because either......
A. The was take very good care of over the past 40 years, (which I seriously doubt it) or .......
B. They could have done the rest repair and NOT made all the needed mods to prevent to rust in the next 5 years, where you would be SCREWED again......
One ineresting thought is, I can just about bet you dollars to doughnuts that some of these cars have been restored TWICE!!! If you know what I mean!!!
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
I have seen some cars only a year old with rust holes in them, especialy in the 80's. Some people take better care of thier cars than others used to. Most of it depends on geography, Arizona/California cars dont see much rain and snow only if taken on a road trip. Cars in the midwest are usually done after 5-8 years, they get lighter every week because more rusts away.
Fixing the issues is mainly keeping water and dirt out of the spots you cant wash where it will sit and rust the body under it. Paint helps, but a scratch or a thin spot will allow rust to get in, once it does, it easts away the inside of the car.
Mustangs have ALOT of small spaces you cant see, especially under the front sheetmetal, where they will start to rust because the dirt and water doesnt fall off. Where the upper control arms bolt on will rust, its a natural dirt catcher and most cars arent torn down far enough to find out, they are simply painted.
If you can find a car from the southwest to rebuild, you are farther ahead. They will need less work and you should only have to repair dents and that is easier(provided its not a catastrophic collision) to repair. I have posted pics of the 71, search for my posts and you will find them. Its ugly, and will be a long time getting done. If you dont have a large shop to work in, dont try it.
Fixing the issues is mainly keeping water and dirt out of the spots you cant wash where it will sit and rust the body under it. Paint helps, but a scratch or a thin spot will allow rust to get in, once it does, it easts away the inside of the car.
Mustangs have ALOT of small spaces you cant see, especially under the front sheetmetal, where they will start to rust because the dirt and water doesnt fall off. Where the upper control arms bolt on will rust, its a natural dirt catcher and most cars arent torn down far enough to find out, they are simply painted.
If you can find a car from the southwest to rebuild, you are farther ahead. They will need less work and you should only have to repair dents and that is easier(provided its not a catastrophic collision) to repair. I have posted pics of the 71, search for my posts and you will find them. Its ugly, and will be a long time getting done. If you dont have a large shop to work in, dont try it.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 123
RE: Learning ALOT but still need help
ORIGINAL: want_66fastback
Thanks man,
It seem to me when I go look for a car. It might not be a ba idea to find something cheap that needs total rust repair. That way I can them coat all the parts with this rust inhibiter when I take the car all to peices....is this correct?
Thanks man,
It seem to me when I go look for a car. It might not be a ba idea to find something cheap that needs total rust repair. That way I can them coat all the parts with this rust inhibiter when I take the car all to peices....is this correct?
I admire your enthusiasm but having been in your shoes ...and with a thinner wallet as proof....take my advice and get a car with a decent body. It doesn't have to be perfect or rust free....but the better condition the body is in the better off you will be.