I took the stang in for the alignmnet after the shelby drop. Waited four hours, and when they get to it, they said ill have to bring it back and leave it because it's too far out of alignment. He also said when it's aligned right, the sring will need a spacer because it's going to rub the fender well. Do you believe that, or has the same thing happened to any of you?

 

I don't know what a sring is.,..... But, oftentimes, they have to use shims to get it to align correctly. So, no .....that doesn't surprise me. It was kinda chicken doo-doo to make you bring it back though. Espcially after waiting for such a long time.

 

You shouldn't have a tire rubbing issue after the Shelby drop, it only lowers the car by about 1/4" (even with the full 1" drop of the UCA). What size tires are you running?

Also, what alignment specifications are you getting the car set up to? The original stock alignment settings are **** poor for todays tires. You should get your car set up with a slight performance alignment:

STREET
Caster: +1.5° to +2.5°
Camber: 0 to -.5°
Toe: 1/8"

Tim

 

Yeah, those are the specs i gave them, it's what was on the shelby drop page. I looked and saw what he was talking about, IT looks like the spring is REAL close to the little metal cover over the spring, that has the rubber bumper on it. The only thing out of alignment should be the caster since i only messed with the shims. The tires aren't the issue, they are fine on there, even though it's so out of align it's wearing out the front driver side tire pretty quickly. and Glen, i meant SPRING!! lol. The guy said he will give me a discount since i have to take it back. Im hoping i didn't move the a arms down to low, because the car is sitting alot lower, but i used the template, and got it on the money....... i think. I just dont understand why the springs will start rubbing when it's aligned right now.

 

It's all in the place you go and the professionalism of the shop. I had my '65 aligned recently after considerable front end parts replacement and the shop was fantastic. Took an hour and a half, but the tech was friendly and knowledgeable. Told me it would steer itself after the job was completed and tracks wonderfully. If someone made me wait an hour and a half and told me to bring it back, I'd have found a better shop.

My '65 is lowered one inch in the front, 1 1/2" in the rear with reverse eye springs from Mustangs plus. Running 225x50x15's and looks and runs great. Anyway, just sorry you found shuch a lousy shop to do your work.

 

Looking from the front of the car, do the tops of your tires tip out (positive camber)? This happens frequently if you installed the original shims back in.

If that is the case your spring will actually move away from the outer shock tower braces when he corrects it to negative camber.

Good luck.

BTW: did you upgrade to roller perches? If not, I would highly suggest that as your next front end mod.

 

Actually, I only put have the shims back in. The top of the wheels are going to the inside, and the bottom are sticking out more. The spring is real close to rubbing, and i can see when it's kicked out like it should, it will be on top on the metal cover thing. What would cause the springs to be so close? They didn't say anything like this on the shelby drop page. I want to get the roller perches, but at the moment out of my price range.[:@]

 

OK, well there is something definitely wrong with what you've got. You should have at least 1-1/2" clearance between the spring and the outer shock tower brace. Any way you can take a picture?

I haven't followed along with your front end work. Did you change your UCA's? Is your shock centered inside of the spring?

 

I just did the shelby drop. I didn't change any parts. Idk, Ill have to look tomorrow. Ill try and take pictures then.

 

Did you make sure that your perches are installed correctly and the spring is installed properly in the saddle and facing the right way?