ugh, so I went to pick the kit up today and the guy says "ok, blah blah .030in over for the pistons blah" but I was like wait...i said std sizes when I ordered, the guy looked at the computer and was like"well, it says .030 here" i was getting a little anngry and repeated I ordered all std sizes and he explained that the guy woh filled my order out wasnt there and i'd have to call tmw, but tmw im at school till 5 and they close then. Friday I'll try to call unless I get through during lunch. What really pushed my buttons is that the guy on the phone was like, ok std pistons, ill order them and they should be here wed, if he ordered the wrong ones, they'll have to order them again and i wont get my pistons till like next friggin week sometime. ARGH! So, tmw ill try to call during lunch and then MAYBE i can pick it up Fri. i feel better now that i've vented but i think by now most of you know how i feel

 

if they ordered the wrong ones, u should just say, ok heres the deal...."bore my block out to fit the pistons, and i wont have one word of complaints"


see what they say haha

 

lol, i so would to that but they're just the parts suppliers, i've got the block on a stand in my garage.

 

Did you put a micrometer on the cylinders? Do you know if you can get by with standard bore pistons? The size of the piston is dictated by how much wear is in the cylinders and how far it has to be bored out to clean up those cylinders. Ya can't just go standard because you want to.

 

and when you mic the cylinder, don't just mic the top, you need to get down into the bore and at different places... which will tell you if it is out of round, or egg shaped. infact, if you measure at the very top, there is usually a lip where the top ring stops at TDC, which will also give an incorrect measurement.

 

i know the top woudl be a bad measurement, i didnt think about a micrometer but i seriously doubt there is much wear at all. I pulled the engine apart and the only parts that really cant be saved are the pistons because there is some rust on the tops. the cam, crank, rods, bearings, everything are all in excellent shape. but i plan to check that out tomorrow when I get a chance

 

You need an inside dial miciometer to do it correctly. The machine work is nothing that you should take any chnaces on. I usually tear my motors down to the short block, look at everything and send it to the rebuilder to get the short block done. I just give him the cam and timing chain. When I get it back the machine work is done and the short block is assembled. The last one only need honed and the crank polished, new berings and rings. Only cost me $450. It is money well spent if you have a good honest machinist.

 

ya, IF i do get it bored out, about how much would it cost? any ideas?

To meausre the cylinder, i understand what the micrometer is, but how do I use it? And can I get it at like Autozone or something?

 

just buy one they are cheep buck $2.89

 

My shop guy hot tanked the block,bored the clyinders,installed new cam bearings and fitted the new pistons to my rods for 150