First, I want to thank you all for your excellent advice. This site is the best place for stang info. I was a member a few years back, but had to sell my 99 Cobra. Now I have a 66 Coupe (6 cyl) and I need help!

The oil drain plug was stripped while changing the oil, and we tried an oversize plug, but it leaks. I fugure we need to replace the pan. Do I need to drop the suspension to replace the pan? Is there an easy(er) fix for the stipped plug?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

You might want to drill it out and use a helicoil, I have know folks to have good luch that way.

 

I thought about that, but was worried about shavings in the pan. I already bought the new pan and gasket, and think that I might just replace it. I just don't want to take off any unnecessary parts, like the suspension. That is probably more than I feel comfortable trying to attempt. Is it true that the suspension has to be removed? Is it easier than it looks? I don't want to make things worse on the car.

 

Have you tried using some high heat silicon or gasket maker on the plug. I had a leaky drain plug on my 302 and all i did was put a drop on the bolt. It works fine

 

Been along time since I worked on a 6-banger, but you shouldn't need to drop the suspension (if memory serves me right) I recently changed the oil pump in my 289, just dropped the cross member (and for a little more clearance, loosened the idler arm on the right side). The biggest pain will be working upside down under the engine (not like dropping a pan and gasket on an engine in a stand with the motor turned over) but it can be done. Just make sur ethe gaskets stay in place. LAst one I did, I tacked the cork gaske to the block with rtv, then held it in place with the pan bolts, went back the next morning and finished the job, no worry about the gasket staying in place. Just a thought.

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WOW!! That is one CLEAN engine you got there!!! I thought I was a nut...

 

You don't have to drop any suspension parts to replace the oil pan. As said, gasket replacement needs tricks to get it to seal properly. I seal the gaskets on the oil pan itself and let it cure overnight in order to get a good stick so it doesn 't slide out of place when I put the pan back on. Using the bolts as guides during the curing process is also a good idea for hole alignment purposes.

 

Thanks for the advice. I saw the crossmember on one end and the idler arm on the other and thought I was "trapped". I will just remove the crossmember and definately use your suggestion for setting the cork gaskets. Any tricks for getting the rubber gaskets to set? I replaced the oil pan on a Jeep lasth year and it was a royal pain (well, except for th fact that it was so lifted that I could crawl under there and half way sit up!).

Thanks for all the help, and yes, you def have a clean engine! BTW. Where are you in GA?

 

Ah yes, then there are those infamous rubber gaskets to deal with... get them wrong and you end up with a leak. Once again, this is a problem when installing them with the engine upright. Last time, I used a small ampunt of yellow Permatex fast tack under the seals to hold them in place. Still have to hold in place a few minutes for the stuff to hold properly, but was worth it, had no leaks.

The "clean" engine you are looking at met an early demise. I developed an oil leak at the oil pressure outlet boss on the block. Got worse and worse until the crack there became evident. Bye bye block. Having a "new" 289 short block being readied as we speak. Oh well, better set up this time and adding Trick Flow Heads. Good luck on your oil pan.

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So sorry to hear about your loss! I actually was thinking about doing a swap to a 289, but figured probally cost prohibitive. Besides, we will most likely end up selling this one anyway.

Thanks for the tips!