Removing paint "rub"
OK,
as a result of a stupid parking lot incident, there is some "damage" to the paint on my passenger's side front fender. As best as I can tell, my paint is unharmed but some of the other guy's paint has transferred itself to my car. It looks like this paint residue could simply be buffed off. There are no dents or scratches that I can see, just this "paint transfer".
Any tips on how to do this?
I'm a very competent mechanic but I'm no body guy...
as a result of a stupid parking lot incident, there is some "damage" to the paint on my passenger's side front fender. As best as I can tell, my paint is unharmed but some of the other guy's paint has transferred itself to my car. It looks like this paint residue could simply be buffed off. There are no dents or scratches that I can see, just this "paint transfer".
Any tips on how to do this?
I'm a very competent mechanic but I'm no body guy...
I use Turtle Wax rubbing compound, the type that is "safe for clearcoat". It usually removes 99% or more of the paint transfer. I've used it many times for this purpose. Always rewax the area.
I would start out with a light abrassive polish. If that doesn't work move up to a medium abrassive. I deal with this kinda thing a lot. Sometimes you can remove by hand and sometimes it requires a buffer. It is really hard to tell without me seeing it. As long as you can feel any scratches with your fingernail it isn't into the paint and can be buffed off. Do you own any polishes?
I have some Never-dull chrome polish (cotton wadding type) and I have two different waxes. I have Zymol I use on the 'stang and I also have some 3M Show Car wax that I use on my motorcycles.
I also have some 3M "General purpose adhesive cleaner". I use this stuff to remove tar and other "sticky stuff". A buddy of mine that used to work in a GM dealership said they used to use this stuff all the time to remove paint marks, so I have considered trying it, but I thought I'd ask around first.
That's the extent of my cleaning/detailing products. I don't own a buffer.
I also have some 3M "General purpose adhesive cleaner". I use this stuff to remove tar and other "sticky stuff". A buddy of mine that used to work in a GM dealership said they used to use this stuff all the time to remove paint marks, so I have considered trying it, but I thought I'd ask around first.
That's the extent of my cleaning/detailing products. I don't own a buffer.
I have Poorboys SSR1 light abrassive that should remove what you are talking about. I also have the medium abrassive SSR2.5 that is a medium that would also work.
If you wanted to go over the counter. Megiuars Scratch X might work.
If you wanted to go over the counter. Megiuars Scratch X might work.
If there's any chance to get a "bite" on the edge, you could also try a clay bar... it's likely safer than polishing.
I guess I should say that pictures would be helpful, but it sounds like you've got some good tips already. If you've got some cleaner wax, that'd be a very safe start.
I guess I should say that pictures would be helpful, but it sounds like you've got some good tips already. If you've got some cleaner wax, that'd be a very safe start.
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
just this "paint transfer".
Any tips on how to do this?
just this "paint transfer".
Any tips on how to do this?
I use the turtle wax polishing compound, but only for medium jobs. It is a bit more abrasive than would appear. For jobs like what you are describing I have actually found the best thing to start with before the turtle wax polish is "Kit Scratch Remover." It is around $3 at Wal-Mart, and it takes off not only paint rubs, but also light scratches, accidental swirl marks if you get something abrasive in your power polisher/waxer/buffer, and also abrasion scratches from a person walking by the car. It is safe enough to use on a power waxer/buffer for larger areas on older cars, etc. If it doesn’t get all of it, then go to the polishing compound. Good luck.


