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Spot Weld (post 2: Supporting the car + a little more info on my situation)

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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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dbgrigsby93's Avatar
dbgrigsby93
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 42
From: Indiana
Default Spot Weld (post 2: Supporting the car + a little more info on my situation)

I wanna say thank you to everyone who has given me such good pointers on replacing my floor pans and rear frame rails on my 1973 but I'm not done gathering information. I've gotten a lot of info on the floor pans but don't forget that I'm gonna be replacing the rear frame rails with the torque boxes and I could use some pointers on the installation there. I also want everybody to know that my car right now (despite needing new floors and rails) is very much driveable and I drive it on nice days. It's not a completely rotted car.

The condition of the floors and rails: passenger side rear pan has a hole through the center and the driver side rear pan is a little soft. I'm just gonna go ahead and replace the full pans for each side. My rear torque boxes are both pretty nasty but the worst part about the rear frame rails is on the driver side back toward the bumper where it is rotted and looks like it's ready to break and drop the leaf spring and rear axle. The previous owners just drove this car everyday in the rain and didn't give any attention to keeping the car undercoated.

That being said, I really need to know where the good jack points are. Especially in the rear end. I'm not gonna be able to put a jack under the axle or the rear frame rails and I need to know if it's even a good idea to put a jack under the trunk pan or where?

and btw, for those who were wondering, I'll be doing the work this coming spring (2010) probably in March.

Last edited by dbgrigsby93; Oct 12, 2009 at 09:09 AM.
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