Does everyone change the oil before storing the car? I have about 500 miles on the current change. I am planning on changing the oil before I park the car, unless you guys have a bunch of other ideas.

Thanks

 

Changing fluids before storage is an excellent idea.

 

How long is the car going to be in storage? A humid climate?

Personally, i don't see the point of changing any of the fluids before storing.
After storing,,, it might make sense to change the oil. But in a dry climate, I'm not convinced it's necessary either, unless the oil has foam after running it (water in oil).
Other fluids shouldn't matter at all, except gas.
Gas is the worst thing. Use a gas stablizer like Stabol and the gas s/b good for a year. Empty the carb though.

With an EFI car, I don't do anything except install Stabol and disconnect the battery for peroids of 6-12 months, never changed the oil after (or before) storing, it just keeps running fine. Of course this is a 1990s car i don't care much about so YMMV.

 

While I'm no expert, but I change my oil. The reason I do before I put her away for the winter is the same I change my oil in my lawn mower. I was told old oil can be acidic, and should be drained before you let it sit. Not sure if its right, but I have had zero problems with either.

 

If I were going to change 500 mile oil, (which I wouldn't do unless it was break in oil), I would wait till after storage. Doesn't make much sense to me to have BRAND NEW oil SITTING in the bottom of the pan, seems like a total waste of time, funds, and resources... but I guess that is just me though.

IMO, we are encouraged to change our oil way too frequently, with all due respect, when todays oils are considered, all you 3,000 mile guys are just freaking nuts..

Especially when we are talking about late model fuel injected stuff.

 

Think of it this way:
Acid is still sitting in there touching the same engine parts wheather you let it sit for 6 months or drive it daily for 6 months, so what's the difference??

 

What about the gas in the tank. Is it best to fill it up or leave it close to empty? Either way using a gas stabilizer?

 

Changing new oil sounds dumb....gas stabilizer sounds smart!

-Gun

 

My current practice is to NOT fill it, leave it about 1/4 full and just put gas stablizer in. (Run it for awhile to get the stablizer into the EFI system.)
That way after storage, you can just fill it with fresh gas and you're good to go.

Carb engine, not sure but i think you need to emtpy the gas out of the carb though, otherwise your carb may gunk up. To clarify, I don't store my 71 Mach, just drive it about once-a-week, all year. The car I store is a 1990s car (that is not in California).

 

Heres something I wrote a year ago or so..

Evil's storage tips....

Well its that time again. Time to put our Steed in the barn for good Winters rest. It seems as Winter approaches a lot of storage questions arise. So, this is my attempt to share some storage tips that have worked for me.

#1 Environment. As you know its better to keep your car stored inside and out of the elements. A good clean garage is a great place to bed down your Horse for the winter. The ideal environment would be one that is climate controlled with both heat and humidity. But for most of us this is out of reach. The ideal humidity level would be between 40 and 60% where as corrosion all but stops (think of a Arizona car) and a constant tempature. Less than 40% promotes dryrot with the vinal and rubber. Another issue is a concrete floor. Concrete floors are great but can allow mosture to collect in the form of condensation. This will form on the bottom of your car and setup ideal conditions for rust on the unibody and reek havoc the exhaust system. A simple layer of polyethylene plastic will help keep the mosture trapped and not allow it to move up.

#2 Tempature. For those of us living in freezing areas this is an issue. The antifreeze needs to be checked with a Hydrometer or Refractometer. The Hydrometer works only on Ethylene Glycol based coolants/antifreeze and not on Proplyene Glycol based solutions. The Refractometer can be used with either and is the one I perfer. For you race car guys that are running straight water and maybe a cooling enhancer (Redline water wetter), you need to add or change over to a 50/50 solution of antifreeze. Also remember that antifreeze wears out. Over time the corrosion protection additives will weaken and the coolant may become acidic. It seems that most manufactures recommend every 30,000 miles or three years. There is a lot of room for discussion on the types of coolants (IAT, OAT, and HOAT) and their intended use. You will need to do some research on which is best for your engine build and cooling system and make your own determination. "Electrolysis" is a good indicator that the coolant is too acidic. You can check this with a volt meter and the engine running with the electrical system under full load (make sure the radiator is not pressurized). Stick one probe on the negative post of the battery and the other in the coolant. Anything over 400 millivolts means the coolant is shot and is in need of replacment. Also check the windshield washer fluid as some are not freeze proof and these will need to be drained or changed to a winter washer fluid.

#3 Fuel. This is one that is a very fix but often overlooked untill Spring when you turn the key only to be disappointed. Todays "pump gas" will start to break down in a matter of weeks. This will leade to the formation of a varnish like substance and clog your fuel system. The simple solution is the addition of a fuel stabilizer. Its only a few bucks and can save you hundreds in the Spring. Be sure to top off the tank once the stabilizer is added.

#4 Battery. This can be removed or left in. If you plan to leave it in the car, then you need to use a trickle charger to keep it healthy. Make sure to disconnect both cables from the car before connecting the charger to the battery. If you leave the cables hooked up, then you have the potiential for a source of ignition if something in the electrical system fails or is damaged by a rodent. If removed, it needs to be placed on a wood board or rubber backed carpet and not on the bare floor. Storing it in a warm location and charging it once a month will keep it healthy.


#5 Tires. For the long sleep you need to inflate the tires to the maxium listed pressure if you don't plan to use jackstands. Just don't forget to adjust them in the Spring or when you take it out of storage. It seems that most modern radial tires are not prone to flat spotting due to winter storage. If you have the old vintage or original (haha) type, then jackstands are a must.

#6 Protecting the finish. Before you put your baby away give it a good cleaning and wax job. Vacuum the inside and use some protectant on the vinal and rubber. I use WD40 on all the chrome both on the inside and outside. It will leave a film that will protect the chrome from corrosion and usually last untill spring. A car cover is a good idea also. I perfer a 100% cotton cover if stored inside a garage. If under a carport or outside, you may want to make sure the cover is secure. The wind can cause it to rub the paint off if left loose. Remember that when buying a cover, "water resistant" is not "waterproof". I see a lot of people using a water resistant cover then placing a waterproof tarp on that and using about 50 bungee's to tie it all down. This seems to work well if no indoor garage is available. The last thing is mold. I leave the windows cracked about 2 inches when in storage. This will allow some air flow and reduce the chance of mold. Nothing like uncovering in the spring and finding out the interior has changed colors.

#7 Mechanical. Cars like to be run. When we don't, they get mad and cause us trouble. Check and fill all the fluids before, during, and after the storage period. Also grease the suspension and don't forget the U-joints. When greasing the front suspension, its a good idea to have the car on jack stands. Once done, move the steering wheel back and forth to distribute the grease. With the weight off, the grease will move more freely. While the front wheels are off the ground, its a good time to look at the wheel bearings. Wheel bearing grease can dry out and cause bearing failure. While the wheels are off, take a look at the brake pads or shoes. Its a good time to change them if they are worn. Don't forget about the rear. When checking the rear brakes, look to see if theres any leakage of oil from the axle seals. Sometimes this goes unnoticed untill a problem arises. When in storage try to start your car at least once if not twice a month. When you do, bring it up to operating tempature. If only started for a few minutes and not allowed to heat up, condsation will quickly form and may cause internal injury to the engine and drivetrain. Also its a great time to engauge the A/C and work all the electrical devices. If possiable put it in gear and move it back in forth. This will help keep things lubricated.

#8 Rodents. No, not your cousin Vennie or uncle Bob, but those little furry creatures with long tails and sharp teeth. For me, I do a three step protection. It starts outsied the garage with poison bait blocks. Hopefully I can get them on the outside before they move in and cause damage. You have to be careful around other pets and children and follow the warning labels, but it has been very effective for me. The second is mouse traps. I always keep several traps baited and set. This lets me know if any of the little creatures have made it in. Also I have poison blocks in hidden locations where I think they may want to hide. The last is soap. I keep a couple of bars of "Irish Spring" in each car. I open the box and sit it in the floors. So far it seems that it works. If it don't, at least the car will smell springtime fresh when it comes out of storage.

I will still say that starting the engine once or twice a month is the best protection you give the engine internals. Make sure to bring it up to operating temp to remove the mosture both in the engine and exhaust (#7). I have done this with 40+ year old engines and have had no issues (and no pre winter oil change). If you do plan on a prolonged storage period of several months, then I would recommend a full synthetic. The molecular adhesion properties outweigh the "dyno stuff" and will coat and protect much better. I use synthetic in "EVERYTHING" I want to last. On the down side, it may clean the engine "too good" and you may spring a few leaks (it can eat the varnish from the inside that is sealing the engine). On a side note, the engine needs to be broke in well before switching over to a synthetic.

This is what I do and there may be a better way, but so far this has worked for me.
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